The most popular Cartier watches are the Tank, the Santos and the Panthère, followed by the Pasha, the Ballon Bleu, the Calibre and the Drive. Each one comes from a different moment in the house's history, and each wears in its own way.
In this guide we go through all seven, with the stories behind them and the people who made them famous. We also show the Cartiers in our shop today and the ones we've sold, so you can see what these watches look like in real life and what they cost on the vintage market.
We've listed 37 Cartier watches in our shop so far, and 22 of them were Tanks. Most of those were Must de Cartier Tanks in vermeil from the 1980s and 90s, which tells you a lot about where vintage Cartier demand really sits.
The 7 Models at a Glance
Here's how the seven compare before we go into each one. The last column shows what you can find in our shop, in stock or in our sold archive.
| Model | Introduced | Case Shape | Known For | In Our Shop |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tank | 1917 | Rectangular | The definitive dress watch | In stock |
| Santos | 1904 | Square, screwed bezel | One of the first wristwatches for men | Sold archive |
| Panthère | 1983 | Soft square, link bracelet | Jewelry-like bracelet | Sold archive |
| Pasha | 1985 | Round, crown cap on a chain | Bold 1980s sports style | Not yet |
| Ballon Bleu | 2007 | Round, rounded crown guard | Cartier's modern bestseller | Not yet |
| Calibre | 2010 | Round, sporty | Cartier's in-house 1904 MC movement | Not yet |
| Drive | 2016 | Cushion | Vintage car-inspired design | Not yet |
1. Cartier Tank: The Watch That Defines Cartier
Louis Cartier designed the Tank in 1917, and it went on sale in 1919. The story goes that its shape came from the outline of the tanks used on the Western Front, seen from above. The side bars, or brancards, play the role of the tracks, and the dial sits between them.
Few watches have such a famous list of owners. Andy Warhol once said, "I don't wear a Tank watch to tell the time. Actually I never even wind it. I wear a Tank because it is the watch to wear!" Jacqueline Kennedy's Tank, a gift from her brother-in-law Stanislas Radziwill, sold at Christie's New York in June 2017 for $379,500, according to National Jeweler. Princess Diana was often photographed wearing hers too.
The Must de Cartier Tank
For most vintage buyers, the way into the Tank is the Must de Cartier version from the 1970s to the 90s. These have sterling silver cases with a gold vermeil finish, the classic Tank shape and a blue cabochon crown. Our guide to gold, vermeil and gold-plated watches explains what vermeil means and how it wears.
2. Santos de Cartier: The Aviator's Watch
Louis Cartier made the first Santos in 1904 for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian aviator. Santos-Dumont wanted to read the time in flight without taking his hands off the controls, which was hard with a pocket watch. The Santos went on sale to the public in 1911.
Its square case and exposed screws on the bezel make it easy to recognize from across a room. In the 1980s and 90s, Cartier sold steel and gold Santos models with integrated bracelets, and these are the Santos models we've had through our shop. They wear more casually than a Tank and suit everyday use.
3. Panthère de Cartier: The Jewelry Watch
The Panthère arrived in 1983. Its soft square case flows into a supple link bracelet, so it wears more like a piece of jewelry than a tool. The name comes from the panther, a Cartier symbol closely tied to Jeanne Toussaint, who was known as "the Panther" and led the house's fine jewelry from 1933.
Cartier later stopped making the Panthère and brought it back in 2017. The revival sparked new interest in the original 1980s pieces, especially two-tone steel and gold models in the small and medium sizes.
4. Pasha de Cartier: The Bold One
The Pasha launched in 1985 as a large, sporty round watch, reportedly designed with input from Gérald Genta. At 38 mm it was big for its time. Its most famous detail is the screw-down crown cap with a cabochon, held to the case by a small chain.
The name comes with a legend. Thami El Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakesh, is said to have ordered a water-resistant gold watch from Louis Cartier in the early 1930s. Cartier's own account is simpler: the name honors the Pasha as one of Louis Cartier's devoted customers. A refreshed Pasha arrived in 2020 with quick-change straps.
5. Ballon Bleu de Cartier: The Modern Classic
The Ballon Bleu came out in 2007 and quickly became one of Cartier's best-known modern watches. Its rounded case bulges at the sides, and the blue cabochon crown sits inside a protective arch. The Roman numerals around the dial are a nod to Cartier's older designs.
It's often been seen on Catherine, Princess of Wales, which did a lot for its popularity. Because it's a modern watch, you'll find it mostly on the pre-owned market rather than among true vintage pieces.
6. Calibre de Cartier: The Sports Watch
The Calibre de Cartier launched in 2010 with the 1904 MC, an automatic movement made by Cartier itself. The name of the movement points back to 1904, the year of the first Santos. With its broad round case and big Roman numerals, it was Cartier's clearest move into men's sports watches.
Cartier has since phased the Calibre out, so today it's only available pre-owned. It remains one of the few Cartiers built around a movement the house made itself.
7. Drive de Cartier: The Gentleman's Cushion
The Drive arrived in 2016 with a cushion-shaped case inspired by vintage cars. Its guilloché dial, Roman numerals and blue steel hands keep it close to Cartier tradition, but the shape gives it its own character.
It's the youngest model in this list. If you like the Tank's formality but want something round and wider on the wrist, the Drive is worth trying on.
Our Cartier Archive
Every Cartier we've listed stays on our site, even after it's sold. Looking across all 37 of them shows clearly which models vintage buyers come to us for.
Here are some of the Cartiers that have already found new owners. Each one links to its original listing, with full photos and details.
Panthère Medium, Two-Tone, 1980s Sold · $4,557 Santos Octagon, Ref. 187903, Steel & 18K Gold Sold · $4,557 
Santos, Ref. 187901, Steel & 18K Gold, 1990s Sold · $4,420 
Must de Cartier 21, Two-Tone Dial, 1980s Sold · $2,045 
Must Tank Vermeil, Ref. 3 66001, Lemon Dial, 1980s Sold · $3,655 
Must Vendôme, Burgundy Dial, Vermeil Sold · $2,273
Sold prices for our vintage Must Tanks have ranged from $2,958 to $5,596. The size, the dial and whether the box comes with it explain most of that gap, more than the year does.
The single most common reference among the Tanks we've sold is the 590005, which accounts for 8 of the 17.
Start with the case. A Must Tank or Vendôme should carry the "925" mark for sterling silver along with the Cartier signature and a serial number. Our guide to Swiss watch hallmarks shows where to look.
Then check the gold. Vermeil wears first at the corners of the case and on the brancards, and a watch with its gold intact is worth paying more for. The blue cabochon crown is often replaced, so compare its color and shape with other examples before you buy.
Cartiers in Our Shop Now
These are the Cartiers available right now. Prices are as of October 2026.
You'll find the full selection in our Cartier collection.
Which Cartier Is Right for You?
It depends on how you'll wear it. Here's how the most common choices match different kinds of buyers.
The design everyone recognizes, and through the Must line, the most affordable way into vintage Cartier.
A steel and gold bracelet watch that works with jeans as well as a suit, with the oldest story in the catalog.
A fluid bracelet and a small case. The 1980s originals have more character than the modern reissue.
Larger cases and sportier lines, mostly found pre-owned rather than vintage.
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