Introduction
Turn a vintage Swiss watch over and the real clues are rarely on display. More often, they’re hidden inside the case - pressed quietly into the inner case back, or occasionally tucked beneath the lugs. You’ll find a tiny symbol stamped into the metal. A head. An animal. Sometimes something that looks more like folklore than metallurgy.
These small marks, known as Swiss watch hallmarks, carry a surprising amount of information—about metal purity, national standards, and even the era in which the watch was made.
For collectors and enthusiasts, hallmarks are more than just legal requirements. They’re clues. They confirm whether a case is solid gold or plated, sterling silver or coin silver, platinum or something else entirely. In the world of vintage watches, where originality and material matter deeply, learning to read these marks is an essential skill.
This guide breaks down the most common Swiss hallmarks you’ll encounter, explains what they mean, and puts them into context - so the next time you inspect a case back, you’ll know exactly what you’re looking at.
Swiss Hallmarks Explained
Swiss precious metal hallmarks are nationally regulated and often feature animals or symbolic figures. Unlike simple numerical stamps, these pictorial marks are quick visual indicators of both metal type and purity.
Head of Helvetia
-
Metal: 18k gold
-
Purity: 750 / 75% gold
The head of Helvetia is the personification of Switzerland itself, and one of the most prestigious hallmarks you’ll find on a Swiss watch case. Used for 18k gold, this mark is commonly seen on high-end vintage and modern luxury watches. If you see Helvetia, you’re looking at solid gold - no ambiguity.
Squirrel
-
Metal: 14k gold
-
Purity: 585 / 58.5% gold
Charming and easy to spot, the squirrel hallmark denotes 14k gold. This alloy was especially popular in vintage watches, offering a more durable and affordable alternative to 18k gold while still retaining a rich, warm tone.
Duck
-
Metal: Sterling silver
-
Purity: 925 / 92.5% silver
The duck is used for sterling silver cases. You’ll often see this on mid-century Swiss watches, particularly dress models. Sterling silver offers excellent lustre and a satisfying weight, though it does require a bit more care to avoid tarnish.
Bear
-
Metal: Silver
-
Purity: 875 / 87.5% silver
The bear hallmark represents 875 silver. Slightly less pure than sterling, this alloy was widely used in watch cases and is still considered high quality. It’s especially common in British-market Swiss watches.
Capercaillie (Wood Grouse)
-
Metal: Silver
-
Purity: 800 / 80% silver
The capercaillie, also known as the wood grouse, marks 800 silver. This alloy—sometimes called coin silver—was used extensively in early and mid-20th-century watchmaking. Brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre regularly used 800 silver for their cases, particularly in European markets.
Chamois
-
Metal: Platinum
-
Purity: 950 / 95% platinum
The chamois, a goat-antelope native to the Alps, signifies platinum. Specifically, 950 platinum, the standard alloy used in watchmaking. Platinum cases are rare, dense, and unmistakably luxurious, and this hallmark is a strong indicator of collectability.
Gold Standards in Watchmaking
Gold purity is measured in carats, with 24 carats representing pure gold. Since pure gold is very soft, it’s alloyed with other metals to improve durability and adjust colour. These alloys are where things get interesting.
18K / 18ct / 750
-
Gold content: 75%
The modern luxury standard. 18k gold strikes a balance between richness, weight, and prestige. It does scratch more easily than lower carat gold, but that softness also contributes to its warm glow and satisfying heft on the wrist.
14K / 14ct / 585
-
Gold content: 58.5%
More durable and slightly lighter than 18k gold, 14k was especially common in vintage Swiss watches. With a Mohs hardness of roughly 3.5–4, it’s one of the toughest gold alloys used in watch cases.
9K / 9ct / 375
-
Gold content: 37.5%
The lowest gold content still considered “solid gold.” Interestingly, due to its high copper content, 9k gold can end up being nearly as soft as 18k gold. It often has a deeper, rosier colour and was popular in certain m
Learn more about gold watches:
Curious about the differences between gold, gold-plated, gold-filled, and gold-capped watches?
Read our guide: What’s the Real Difference — Gold, Gold-Plated, Gold-Filled, or Gold-Capped Watches.
Silver Standards
950 Silver
-
Silver content: 95%
Also known as European silver, this alloy is softer than sterling but allows for intricate craftsmanship. Less common in watch cases, but prized when found.
875 Silver
-
Silver content: 87.5%
A practical, affordable alternative to sterling silver with similar properties. Frequently seen in British-market Swiss watches.
800 Silver
-
Silver content: 80%
Once the minimum standard in Germany, 800 silver was widely used across Europe. Many respected Swiss brands employed it, particularly in early wristwatches.
Platinum Standards
Pt950 / 950 Pt.
-
Platinum content: 95%
The benchmark for platinum watch cases. The remaining 5% alloy—often ruthenium or cobalt—has a major impact on durability and machinability. Ruthenium is preferred for precision cases, while cobalt is common in jewellery casting.
Pt900 / 900 Pt.
-
Platinum content: 90%
Less common, but occasionally found in vintage watches. Slightly less pure and less hypoallergenic than Pt950, though visually and functionally very similar.
Poinçons de Maître
In 1926, Switzerland introduced a discreet system to identify manufacturers of precious metal watch cases. Instead of names or logos, case makers were assigned numbered symbols inside outlined shapes, stamped inside the case.
The reason was simple: luxury watch brands didn’t want another company’s name inside their watches. Many cases were made by independent suppliers, but brands wanted customers to believe everything was made in-house. The numbered marks allowed identification without visible branding.
These marks are called poinçons de maître (“master’s punch”) and are legally distinct from trademarks. While trademarks can be used on any product, a poinçon de maître applies only to precious metal items.
When the same symbol was shared by multiple case makers, each was distinguished by a unique number. These are known as poinçons de maître collective, or collective responsibility marks.
For a deeper look at these markings and Swiss hallmarks, we strongly recommend visiting the comprehensive guide compiled by David Boettcher. It includes a complete list of the various Poinçons de Maître, along with detailed examples showing how Swiss hallmarks have evolved over the years.
Conclusion
Swiss watch hallmarks are small, discreet, and easy to overlook—but once you understand them, they add a whole new layer of appreciation. These marks tell stories of national standards, material choices, and the practical realities of watchmaking across different eras.
For collectors, hallmarks are reassurance. For enthusiasts, they’re a gateway into deeper knowledge. And for anyone buying a vintage Swiss watch, they’re an essential checkpoint—quietly confirming authenticity, quality, and value.
FAQs
Q1. What are Swiss watch hallmarks and where are they usually found?
A1. Swiss watch hallmarks are small stamped symbols that indicate metal type and purity. They are typically found inside the case back or occasionally beneath the lugs.
Q2. What does the Head of Helvetia hallmark mean on a watch case?
A2. The Head of Helvetia signifies an 18k solid gold case with a purity of 750, meaning 75% gold.
Q3. How can you identify silver watch cases using Swiss hallmarks?
A3. Swiss silver cases are marked with animal symbols: a duck for sterling silver (925), a bear for 875 silver, and a capercaillie for 800 silver.
Q4. What hallmark indicates a platinum Swiss watch case and what is its purity?
A4. The chamois hallmark indicates a platinum case with a purity of 950, meaning 95% platinum.
Q5. What are poinçons de maître and why were they introduced?
A5. Poinçons de maître are numbered symbols used to identify Swiss precious metal case makers. They were introduced in 1926 to allow manufacturer identification without displaying names or logos inside luxury watches.
