Vintage Movado Swiss Watch, François Borgel (FB) Case, Automatic Bumper Cal. 221A. from 1940's
Here’s a vintage Movado that really pulls you in. This one runs on the Movado Caliber 221A, a bumper automatic from the early days of automatic watchmaking. You’ll actually feel the rotor “bumping” inside as it winds, which gives it a mechanical charm that modern autos just don’t have.
But let’s talk about that dial — because that’s what makes this piece. The original finish has aged into this dreamy salmon tone, with warm, cloudy patina across the whole surface. It shifts from peach to golden-orange in different light, with just enough fading to show its age without looking tired. The gilt numerals (12, 3, 6, 9) and arrowhead markers catch the light beautifully, and the dauphine hands round it all out with a classic mid-century look.
At 33mm, the stainless steel case wears super comfortably, and it’s made by François Borgel (FB) — one of the top Swiss case makers back in the day (he also made cases for Patek and Mido). You can see his FB stamp inside the case back, along with all the original Movado markings.
CASE:
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Stainless steel, signed François Borgel (FB)
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33 mm (excluding crown) / 40,5 mm lug-to-lug / 16 mm lug width
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Reference A244856 / 16191
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Great condition, with clean lines and minimal wear
MOVEMENT:
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Movado Caliber 221A
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17-jewel bumper automatic
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Swiss made
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Running well
DIAL:
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Gorgeous original salmon dial with natural patina
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Gilt numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9 + applied arrow markers
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Dauphine hands
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Signed Movado automatic
About Brand
What makes Movado an important vintage watch brand?
Movado was founded in 1881 in La Chaux-de-Fonds and quickly established itself as a leader in innovative Swiss watchmaking. In the vintage watch market, Movado is best known for its high-grade in-house movements, elegant chronograph designs, and strong connections to mid-20th-century modernist aesthetics. Vintage Movado watches are especially respected by collectors who value technical quality paired with refined design.
Why is Movado significant in vintage watch history?
Movado played a major role in the development of high-quality chronographs during the 1930s–1950s. The brand produced some of the finest chronograph movements of the era, often rivaling those of more widely recognized luxury brands. Movado chronographs powered by the caliber M90 are widely regarded as benchmarks of vintage chronograph engineering and design.
Are vintage Movado watches suitable for everyday wear?
Many vintage Movado watches were designed as functional tools or dress watches and remain wearable today. Time-only models and early chronographs were built with durable cases and reliable mechanical movements. When properly serviced, a vintage Movado watch can still be worn regularly, though rare chronograph models are often worn more carefully due to their collectability.
What should collectors look for when buying a vintage Movado watch?
When purchasing a vintage watch from Movado, originality and condition are critical. Collectors should look for:
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Original dial with correct fonts and sub-dial layout
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Matching case reference and movement caliber
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Sharp case geometry and unpolished details
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Period-correct hands, crown, and pushers
Movado dials and movements are particularly valued for their quality and refined finishing.
Which vintage Movado models are most collectible?
Some of the most desirable vintage Movado watches include:
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Chronographs powered by the caliber M90
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Two-register and three-register chronograph references from the 1940s
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Early Movado dress watches with in-house manual-wind movements
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Military-issued and oversized steel chronographs
These watches are prized for their mechanical excellence, rarity, and clean design within the vintage watch market.
Are vintage Movado watches a good investment?
Movado is often considered an undervalued brand in the vintage watch segment. As collector awareness grows, demand for well-preserved vintage Movado chronographs—especially M90-powered examples—has increased. Original vintage Movado watches offer strong long-term appeal due to their limited production and high-quality construction.
Additional photos or videos of the watch
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Watch servicing information
All watches in our shop are in full working condition, having been professionally serviced by a certified watchmaker. Each watch undergoes a final inspection prior to shipping to ensure quality and reliability.
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Warranty
Each watch purchased from us includes a warranty to ensure its quality and performance. The warranty covers movement and functional issues, with specific terms based on the type of watch (1 year for mechanical and automatic watches, 6 months for quartz watches). For more details, please visit this page.
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