Who Was François Borgel, and Why Should You Care?
Have you ever heard of François Borgel? If not, you’re not alone. Yet this 19th-century Genevan watchmaker quietly revolutionised how watches were built – and in doing so, earned a place in horological history. Born in Geneva in 1856, Borgel set up shop as a watch case maker at just 24 years old. He wasn’t crafting dials or movements, only the outer cases that protect the delicate workings of a watch. Sounds niche, right? But here’s the twist: by focusing on cases, Borgel ended up solving one of the era’s biggest watchmaking challenges – keeping out dust and water.
Back then, pocket watches were the norm, and early wristwatches were considered novel (even “effeminate” by some men before WWI). Most watches couldn’t handle a little rain or dirt. Imagine carrying a treasured timepiece only to have moisture seep in and ruin the movement – not fun. Borgel recognized this problem and literally made it his business to fix it. He registered a distinctive makers’ mark (his initials “FB” over a small Geneva key) in 1887, stamping it inside every case he made. It’s a tiny symbol with a big reputation among collectors today. If you spot that “FB” and key mark inside a vintage watch’s caseback, you’ve likely found yourself a Borgel case. And that little hallmark is a clue to something special.
A Screw-In Watch Case Ahead of Its Time
So, what exactly did Borgel invent that was so ground-breaking? In October 1891, he patented a screw-in watch case design – basically a watch case that could be sealed up tight with a screw-like action. Sounds simple now, but picture the era: no rubber gaskets, no high-tech waterproof seals, just metal against metal. Borgel’s idea was to eliminate as many entry points for dust and moisture as possible. He created a case that didn’t pop open like a clam; instead, the movement (with the dial and hands attached) sat in a threaded ring that screwed directly into a solid case from the front. It was ingeniously simple and effective. Fewer gaps meant fewer chances for water to sneak in.
Think of it like screwing a lid onto a jar – but this jar was a watch, and keeping it tightly closed was suddenly a whole lot easier. Early adopters of this screw-in case included respected brands like Longines and IWC, who saw the appeal of a sturdier, dustproof watch for their clients. By using precise machining and fine threads, Borgel’s cases managed to keep out the elements without any rubber seals. In fact, the tolerances were so good that people later reported Borgel-cased watches surviving accidental dunks in rivers and even trips through the washing machine, all while staying dry inside. Hard to believe, right? It wasn’t truly “dive watch” waterproof by modern standards, but for the 1890s it was nothing short of a revolution.
From the Trenches to the World: Proving the Value of Borgel’s Design
Now, a great invention is one thing – proving its worth is another. Enter World War I. When the war broke out, soldiers discovered that fumbling with pocket watches in the heat of battle was impractical (not to mention dangerous). They needed sturdy wristwatches, and they needed them fast. Military officers began strapping converted pocket watches to their wrists, creating early “trench watches.” Timing an artillery barrage or an advance down to the second could mean life or death. A mistimed advance could be fatal for an officer and his unit, so a reliable, protected timepiece was critical. Dust, mud, rain – the trenches were pure torture for any delicate mechanism. This is exactly where Borgel’s cases shone.
Borgel’s screw-in cases, often made of robust silver and even 18k gold for those who could afford it, became highly sought after by officers who wanted the best gear available. They weren’t cheap – but can you really put a price on a watch that might save your life by keeping time in a muddy trench? These watches earned the nickname “officer’s watches” because so many were bought by men at the front. And thanks to Borgel’s design, they were far better at keeping the crud out. Picture a lieutenant wiping mud off his wristwatch’s crystal, confident that inside, Borgel’s tightly sealed case was keeping the movement safe and ticking. That peace of mind was invaluable.
By war’s end, the wristwatch wasn’t a novelty anymore; it was a necessity. And François Borgel’s waterproof cases had proven themselves in the field. Even after Borgel’s death in 1912, his family continued the business, supplying these tough cases throughout WWI and beyond. In 1924, his daughter Louisa finally sold the company to another Swiss family of casemakers – the Tauberts – who would carry the torch forward. But make no mistake: by that time, Borgel’s name was already etched (sometimes literally) in watchmaking history.
Brands That Embraced the Borgel Case
Here’s where things get really interesting for collectors. François Borgel’s influence didn’t stop at a few trench watches. In fact, one of the reasons his cases are so valuable today is the sheer breadth of great watches that used them. Remember how I said Borgel only made cases, not whole watches? That means he supplied cases to many different brands – and some of those brands are pretty famous. For instance, in the 1920s Rolex experimented with Borgel’s screw cases for a limited run of watches, in what would become the company’s first attempt at a sport-resistant watch. The authors Hess and Dowling note it was “the first model produced by Rolex in which the case was specifically designed to give protection against some of the elements”. In other words, before Rolex’s own Oyster case came along in 1926, Borgel had already pointed the way. (Fun fact: Rolex’s founder Hans Wilsdorf even bought one of Borgel’s patents – and the Rolex Oyster’s design shows a striking resemblance to Borgel’s screw-in case.)
After the Taubert family took over in 1924, the innovation continued. The new firm, Taubert & Fils (sons of the original Taubert), respected Borgel’s legacy so much that they kept using his name and ideas while pushing the tech further. In the late 1920s they introduced a new twist (literally) on the waterproof case: a decagonal case design with a ten-sided screw-on back (and sometimes bezel). Those flat sides weren’t just for looks – they let watchmakers tighten the case extra firmly with a special tool, creating an even better seal than fingers alone could manage. This decagonal screw-back became Taubert & Fils’ signature by the 1930s, and they vigorously patented and protected it. If you’ve ever seen a vintage watch with a weird ten-sided case back, chances are it came from the Borgel/Taubert workshop.
Over the mid-20th century, hundreds of thousands of these Borgel–Taubert cases found their way into watches from dozens of brands. We’re talking top-tier names like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, who entrusted Borgel (and later Taubert) to make cases for some of their most important models. Even humble favorites like Mido, Movado, Doxa, and West End Watch Co. used Borgel’s waterproof cases in their lineup. This means if you’re a collector, you have options ranging from high-end Swiss complications to rugged everyday pieces – all sharing the Borgel DNA.
Famously, Patek Philippe employed Borgel cases for icons like the Calatrava reference 565 and the chronograph reference 1463. These models are legendary today – the 1463 was Patek’s only vintage waterproof chronograph, instantly set apart by its screw-down (decagonal) back and round “Tasti Tondi” pushers. And the reference 565, often seen in steel, was a sleek Calatrava that happened to hide a unique one-piece water-resistant case (a monocoque case that opens from the front) crafted by Borgel. Both watches are now hugely collectible – partly because of their timeless design, but also because they were so ahead of their time in durability. As one writer noted, these models have become “some of the most collectible of all vintage watches” due to their historical importance and their profound beauty. In other words, a big chunk of their allure comes from those clever Borgel cases keeping them ticking and pristine all these decades.
But here’s the cool part: you don’t need Patek-level cash to enjoy a Borgel case. Many affordable vintage pieces also feature that patented waterproof design. For example, Movado in the 1940s and ’50s put a lot of their in-house chronographs and dress watches in Borgel-made cases. Some of these Movados even used the exact same case as Patek’s reference 565 – essentially giving you a Patek-grade case with a Movado dial and movement. The result? A timepiece that blends high-end engineering with everyday affordability, sometimes so well that you might mistake it for a far pricier watch at first glance. It’s like finding a vintage sports car chassis under the body of a sedan – a hidden gem only true enthusiasts recognize. No wonder collectors get a kick out of hunting these down.
Why Are Borgel Cases So Valuable Today?
1. Historical Significance
He pioneered water-resistant cases long before modern dive watches existed.
2. Exceptional Craftsmanship
Borgel cases look good, feel good, and have survived a century of use.
3. Brand Association
His cases appear on some of the most collectible references ever made.
4. Scarcity
His workshop and the later Taubert workshop are both long gone.
5. Collector Appeal
The “FB” hallmark is like a secret signature that collectors love.
6. Investment Potential
From Patek’s reference 1463 to sleepers like Borgel-cased Movados, these watches hold or grow value reliably.
In the End…
The value of François Borgel’s cases isn’t just monetary. His innovations connected the pocket-watch era to the modern waterproof watch. His designs empowered both luxury maisons and everyday brands to build stronger, smarter timepieces.
