Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Chronograph, 18K Solid Gold Case Cal. UG 285 from 1940's
This exceptional Jaeger chronograph from circa 1945 is a rare and historically significant piece that represents a unique chapter in the story of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Cased in solid 18k pink gold, it features a large 37 mm case with crisp pushers, elegant teardrop lugs, and a beautifully aged dial with blue tachymeter and telemeter scales — all powered by the legendary Universal Genève Caliber 285.
While the dial is signed simply “Jaeger”, this is not a redial or omission — it’s an important clue. During this era, Jaeger-LeCoultre operated in France under the name "Jaeger" only, as part of a separate legal and commercial arrangement. It wasn’t until the 1970s that the full Jaeger-LeCoultre branding unified across markets. Watches like this were specially cased and signed for the French market, making them incredibly collectible today.
The solid pink gold case was made in France, and is hallmarked with the French eagle’s head — a legal requirement for all 18k gold French-made cases. It carries all the signs of high-quality French case-making, including elegant finishing and beautiful proportions. The case measures 37 mm in diameter, 44 mm lug-to-lug, and 13.5 mm thick, giving it strong wrist presence for the period.
Inside beats the Universal Genève Cal. 285, a highly respected manually wound column-wheel chronograph movement, known for its reliability and precise operation. The movement is signed Jaeger – Fab. Suisse and shows the fine finishing expected from top-tier chronographs of the era.
CASE:
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Solid 18k pink gold, French-made
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Eagle head hallmark on case back (official French gold stamp)
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37 mm diameter (without crown)
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44 mm lug-to-lug
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13.5 mm thickness
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Reference number 129105
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Excellent vintage condition with sharp lugs and strong definition
MOVEMENT:
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Manual wind Universal Genève Caliber 285
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Column-wheel chronograph
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Signed Jaeger – Fab. Suisse
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Fully functional, professionally serviced
DIAL:
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Original two-register chronograph dial
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Aged cream tone with even patina and subtle spotting
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Blue tachymeter and telemeter scales
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Blued steel chronograph hands
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Signed Jaeger
About Brand
What makes Jaeger-LeCoultre an important vintage watch brand?
Jaeger-LeCoultre, founded in 1833 in the Vallée de Joux, is regarded as one of the most technically accomplished Swiss watch manufacturers in history. Often referred to as “the watchmaker’s watchmaker,” the brand is highly respected in the vintage watch market for its in-house movements, technical innovation, and refined design. Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches are valued for their mechanical excellence and understated elegance.
Why is Jaeger-LeCoultre significant in vintage watch history?
Jaeger-LeCoultre played a pivotal role in advancing watchmaking technology throughout the 20th century. The brand supplied movements to other leading Swiss manufacturers and developed ultra-thin calibers, complex complications, and innovative case designs. Iconic creations such as the Reverso, introduced in 1931, and early Memovox alarm watches are now considered landmarks in vintage watch history.
Are vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches suitable for everyday wear?
Many vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches were designed for daily use, particularly dress and professional models. Watches powered by movements such as the caliber 450, caliber 470, or early caliber 8xx and 9xx families are known for their precision and smooth operation. When properly serviced, a vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watch can be worn regularly while retaining its value as a collectible vintage watch.
What should collectors look for when buying a vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watch?
When purchasing a vintage watch from Jaeger-LeCoultre, collectors should focus on originality and technical condition. Important aspects include:
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Original dial and hands with correct proportions
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Correct case style and movement caliber
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Matching serial numbers where applicable
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Evidence of professional servicing
Because Jaeger-LeCoultre produced many variations, correct configuration and originality play a significant role in determining value.
Which vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre models are most collectible?
Some of the most sought-after vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches include:
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Reverso models from the 1930s–1950s
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Early Memovox alarm watches
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Triple-date and moonphase models
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Ultra-thin dress watches powered by manual-wind calibers
These models are prized for their innovation, craftsmanship, and timeless design within the vintage watch market.
Are vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches a good investment?
Jaeger-LeCoultre offers strong long-term appeal in the vintage watch market. While historically undervalued compared to some peers, collector interest has grown steadily as appreciation for the brand’s technical contributions increases. Well-preserved vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches, especially early Reverso and Memovox models, continue to attract strong demand.
Additional photos or videos of the watch
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Watch servicing information
All watches in our shop are in full working condition, having been professionally serviced by a certified watchmaker. Each watch undergoes a final inspection prior to shipping to ensure quality and reliability.
Shipping
Standard Delivery: 7-21 business days, depending on location. Free for all orders.
Express Delivery: 3-10 business days, depending on location, at extra cost. Free for orders 1000$ and more.
Processing Time: 3-5 business days for all orders, regardless of shipping method.
All parcels are fully insured and carefully packaged to ensure they arrive safely. For specific delivery estimates based on your country, please visit this page.
Warranty
Each watch purchased from us includes a warranty to ensure its quality and performance. The warranty covers movement and functional issues, with specific terms based on the type of watch (1 year for mechanical and automatic watches, 6 months for quartz watches). For more details, please visit this page.
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