Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Chronograph, 18K Solid Gold Case Cal. UG 285 from 1940's

This exceptional Jaeger chronograph from circa 1945 is a rare and historically significant piece that represents a unique chapter in the story of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Cased in solid 18k pink gold, it features a large 37 mm case with crisp pushers, elegant teardrop lugs, and a beautifully aged dial with blue tachymeter and telemeter scales — all powered by the legendary Universal Genève Caliber 285.

While the dial is signed simply “Jaeger”, this is not a redial or omission — it’s an important clue. During this era, Jaeger-LeCoultre operated in France under the name "Jaeger" only, as part of a separate legal and commercial arrangement. It wasn’t until the 1970s that the full Jaeger-LeCoultre branding unified across markets. Watches like this were specially cased and signed for the French market, making them incredibly collectible today.

The solid pink gold case was made in France, and is hallmarked with the French eagle’s head — a legal requirement for all 18k gold French-made cases. It carries all the signs of high-quality French case-making, including elegant finishing and beautiful proportions. The case measures 37 mm in diameter, 44 mm lug-to-lug, and 13.5 mm thick, giving it strong wrist presence for the period.

Inside beats the Universal Genève Cal. 285, a highly respected manually wound column-wheel chronograph movement, known for its reliability and precise operation. The movement is signed Jaeger – Fab. Suisse and shows the fine finishing expected from top-tier chronographs of the era.

CASE:

• Solid 18k pink gold, French-made

• Eagle head hallmark on case back (official French gold stamp)

• 37 mm diameter (without crown)

• 44 mm lug-to-lug

• 13.5 mm thickness

• Reference number 129105

• Excellent vintage condition with sharp lugs and strong definition

MOVEMENT:

• Manual wind Universal Genève Caliber 285

• Column-wheel chronograph

• Signed Jaeger – Fab. Suisse

• Fully functional, professionally serviced

DIAL:

• Original two-register chronograph dial

• Aged cream tone with even patina and subtle spotting

• Blue tachymeter and telemeter scales

• Blued steel chronograph hands

• Signed Jaeger