Vintage Universal Genève Dress watch, 18K Solid Gold Oversized Case, Sub-Seconds, Cal. 262 from 1951

Regular price $4,790.00
USA & EU: Taxes and import duties included
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This is a vintage Universal Genève dress watch in 18K solid gold, from 1951 - the brand's golden era, when its Geneva-made dress and chronograph watches stood among the most respected in Switzerland. What sets this example apart is scale: at 37.5mm it is genuinely oversize for its period, a size that makes these early UG dress pieces so sought after today.

The case is 18K solid gold, with sculpted, flared lugs and a domed back engraved "Modèle Déposé" - the registered case design - measuring 37.5mm across, 45.5mm lug-to-lug, and a slim 8.2mm thick. The silver dial is classic early-1950s UG: applied gold Arabic numerals at the even hours alternating with faceted gold dart markers, a sub-seconds register at six, the Universal Genève shield at twelve, and large gold dauphine hands. Both dial and hands carry a warm, even patina, and the dial presents as original and unrestored. It comes on a brown crocodile-grain leather strap.

Inside is the manual-wind Universal Genève Cal. 262, a reliable sub-seconds movement from one of the great names of Swiss watchmaking. It has been professionally serviced, is running well, and is ready to wear - an understated, well-proportioned gold dress watch with real collector pedigree.

Every watch we sell includes:

  • ✓ Professional inspection by our watchmaker
  • ✓ Serviced, running well, and ready to wear
  • ✓ One-year warranty
  • ✓ Express shipping included
  • ✓ Carefully packed and ready to wear

CASE:

  • 18K solid gold
  • Oversize round case with sculpted, flared lugs
  • Domed case back engraved "Modèle Déposé"
  • Case diameter: 37.5mm
  • Lug-to-lug: 45.5mm
  • Thickness: 8.2mm
  • Serial 1496158 (dates to 1951); case ref. 112173

DIAL:

  • Silver dial with applied gold Arabic numerals at the even hours
  • Faceted gold dart markers at the remaining positions
  • Sub-seconds register at 6
  • Gold dauphine hands
  • Original, unrestored

MOVEMENT:

  • Universal Genève Cal. 262, manual wind
  • 15 jewels
  • Sub-seconds
  • Swiss made
  • Serviced and running well
About Brand

What makes Universal Genève an important vintage watch brand?

Universal Genève is one of the most respected names in high-grade Swiss watchmaking, founded in 1894. The brand is especially revered in the vintage watch world for its early mastery of chronograph complications, refined case design, and collaboration with some of the most influential designers of the 20th century. Today, vintage Universal Genève watches are considered connoisseur pieces within the vintage watch market.

Why is Universal Genève significant in vintage watch history?

Universal Genève played a pioneering role in the development of wrist-worn chronographs. The brand produced some of the earliest and most elegant chronograph designs of the 1930s–1960s. Models powered by in-house movements such as the caliber 285 and caliber 281 helped define the technical standards for vintage chronographs and influenced later generations of watchmakers.

Are vintage Universal Genève watches suitable for everyday wear?

Many vintage Universal Genève watches were designed as functional yet refined instruments. Time-only models and early chronographs were built with durability in mind, though they are now often worn more carefully due to their rarity. When properly serviced, a vintage Universal Genève watch can still be worn regularly while preserving its status as a collectible vintage watch.

What should collectors look for when buying a vintage Universal Genève watch?

When buying a vintage watch from Universal Genève, originality is especially important. Collectors should look for:

  • Original dials with correct fonts and layouts

  • Matching case references and movement calibers

  • Untouched cases with sharp geometry

  • Period-correct hands and crowns

Because many Universal Genève watches were produced in smaller numbers, correct and original examples command strong premiums in the vintage watch market.

Which Universal Genève vintage models are most collectible?

Some of the most sought-after vintage Universal Genève watches include:

  • Universal Genève Compax chronographs

  • Tri-Compax models featuring triple calendar and moonphase

  • Uni-Compax single-register chronographs

  • Early Polerouter models designed by Gérald Genta

  • Chronographs powered by caliber 281 and caliber 285

These models are highly prized for their design sophistication, mechanical quality, and historical importance.

Are vintage Universal Genève watches a good investment?

Universal Genève is widely regarded as an undervalued brand in the vintage watch market relative to its historical importance. As collector awareness grows, well-preserved examples—especially Compax and Tri-Compax models—have shown strong appreciation. Original vintage Universal Genève watches are increasingly difficult to find, supporting long-term collector demand.

Additional photos or videos of the watch

We can send additional photos if needed, including close-ups of the watch movement, back case, or any other specific details.

Simply contact us here, and a member of our team will be happy to assist!

Watch servicing information

All watches in our shop are in full working condition, having been professionally serviced by a certified watchmaker. Each watch undergoes a final inspection prior to shipping to ensure quality and reliability.

Shipping

Standard Delivery: 7-21 business days, depending on location. Free for all orders.

Express Delivery: 3-10 business days, depending on location, at extra cost. Free for orders 1000$ and more.

Processing Time: 3-5 business days for all orders, regardless of shipping method.

All parcels are fully insured and carefully packaged to ensure they arrive safely. For specific delivery estimates based on your country, please visit this page.

Warranty

Each watch purchased from us includes a warranty to ensure its quality and performance. The warranty covers movement and functional issues, with specific terms based on the type of watch (1 year for mechanical and automatic watches, 6 months for quartz watches). For more details, please visit this page.

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