Vintage Universal Genève Uni-Compax, 18K Solid Gold Chronograph with Square Pushers, Cal. 287
This vintage Universal Genève Uni-Compax is one of those watches that instantly explains why collectors are obsessed with these chronographs. The two-register layout is perfectly balanced, the dial has aged beautifully into a warm cream tone. Classic dauphine hands and recessed sub-dials give it that unmistakable vintage depth, and the “Uni-Compax” signature seals the deal.
The case is solid 18K gold, Swiss-made and bears the Helvetia head, confirming Swiss 0.750 gold purity, and features those iconic square chronograph pushers that collectors love. At 36.5mm, with a 42.5mm lug-to-lug length.
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Inside beats the Universal Genève Caliber 287, part of the legendary 285 chronograph family. This movement line is seriously respected - column-wheel, manual-wind, smooth pusher action, and built like a tank. Calibers from the 285 family powered some of the most important chronographs, and the 287 continues that legacy.
CASE
36.5mm diameter
42.5mm lug-to-lug
18mm lug width
Solid 18K gold case with Swiss gold hallmark
Square chronograph pushers
MOVEMENT
Universal Genève Caliber 287
Manual-wind column-wheel chronograph
Part of the legendary Caliber 285 movement family
DIAL
Original Uni-Compax two-register dial
Applied Arabic numerals at 12 and 6
Faceted hour markers
Recessed sub-dials
Natural, even vintage patina
About Brand
What makes Universal Genève an important vintage watch brand?
Universal Genève is one of the most respected names in high-grade Swiss watchmaking, founded in 1894. The brand is especially revered in the vintage watch world for its early mastery of chronograph complications, refined case design, and collaboration with some of the most influential designers of the 20th century. Today, vintage Universal Genève watches are considered connoisseur pieces within the vintage watch market.
Why is Universal Genève significant in vintage watch history?
Universal Genève played a pioneering role in the development of wrist-worn chronographs. The brand produced some of the earliest and most elegant chronograph designs of the 1930s–1960s. Models powered by in-house movements such as the caliber 285 and caliber 281 helped define the technical standards for vintage chronographs and influenced later generations of watchmakers.
Are vintage Universal Genève watches suitable for everyday wear?
Many vintage Universal Genève watches were designed as functional yet refined instruments. Time-only models and early chronographs were built with durability in mind, though they are now often worn more carefully due to their rarity. When properly serviced, a vintage Universal Genève watch can still be worn regularly while preserving its status as a collectible vintage watch.
What should collectors look for when buying a vintage Universal Genève watch?
When buying a vintage watch from Universal Genève, originality is especially important. Collectors should look for:
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Original dials with correct fonts and layouts
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Matching case references and movement calibers
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Untouched cases with sharp geometry
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Period-correct hands and crowns
Because many Universal Genève watches were produced in smaller numbers, correct and original examples command strong premiums in the vintage watch market.
Which Universal Genève vintage models are most collectible?
Some of the most sought-after vintage Universal Genève watches include:
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Universal Genève Compax chronographs
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Tri-Compax models featuring triple calendar and moonphase
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Uni-Compax single-register chronographs
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Early Polerouter models designed by Gérald Genta
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Chronographs powered by caliber 281 and caliber 285
These models are highly prized for their design sophistication, mechanical quality, and historical importance.
Are vintage Universal Genève watches a good investment?
Universal Genève is widely regarded as an undervalued brand in the vintage watch market relative to its historical importance. As collector awareness grows, well-preserved examples—especially Compax and Tri-Compax models—have shown strong appreciation. Original vintage Universal Genève watches are increasingly difficult to find, supporting long-term collector demand.
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