Vintage Must de Cartier Tank, Two-Tone Lemon Dial, Roman Numerals, Ref. 81006, Original Box

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The Must de Cartier line took its name from the house slogan “Cartier, it’s a must.” It launched in 1977 and put the Tank into vermeil, sterling silver with gold plating, so more people could own one. This is reference 81006, the Must de Tank from that line.

The dial is two-tone: a lighter lemon outer track with black Roman numerals and a railroad minute track, framing a deeper lemon centre with the “must de Cartier” signature. Blued sword-shaped hands and a blue cabochon crown complete the look.

The vermeil case measures 23 x 30mm, and the caseback is signed Cartier Paris and stamped with the reference. Inside is a Swiss Cartier quartz movement, serviced and running well. The watch comes with its original Cartier box and is fitted with an aftermarket gold-tone steel mesh bracelet.

✓ Professional inspection by our watchmaker
✓ One-year warranty
✓ Express shipping included
✓ Carefully packed and ready to wear

CASE:
Vermeil case made of 925 sterling silver with gold plating
Case size: 23mm x 30mm
Cabochon crown
Reference: 6 81006

DIAL:
Two-tone lemon dial: lighter outer track, deeper centre
Black Roman numerals
Railroad minute track
“must de Cartier” signature
Blued steel sword-shaped hands
“Swiss” at 6 o’clock

MOVEMENT:
Cartier quartz movement
Swiss made
Serviced, running and functioning as expected

BRACELET:
Aftermarket gold-tone 316L stainless steel mesh bracelet with textured surface

INCLUDED ITEMS:
Original Cartier box

About Brand

What makes Cartier an important vintage watch brand?

Cartier, founded in 1847 in Paris, is one of the most influential names in luxury design and watchmaking. In the vintage watch market, Cartier is celebrated for pioneering shaped watch cases and transforming the wristwatch into a refined design object. Vintage Cartier watches combine strong aesthetic identity with Swiss mechanical expertise, making them highly desirable among collectors of elegant vintage watches.

Why is Cartier significant in vintage watch history?

Cartier was instrumental in popularizing the wristwatch for men in the early 20th century. The Cartier Santos, introduced in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is considered one of the earliest purpose-designed wristwatches. The Tank, introduced in 1917, became one of the most iconic watch designs ever created. These models helped shape the evolution of the modern vintage watch.

Are vintage Cartier watches suitable for everyday wear?

Many vintage Cartier watches were designed as refined dress watches, suitable for regular wear in formal or professional settings. Models powered by high-quality Swiss movements, including manual-wind calibers supplied by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, or ETA, are known for reliability when properly serviced. A well-maintained vintage Cartier watch can be worn daily while maintaining its collectible value.

What should collectors look for when buying a vintage Cartier watch?

When purchasing a vintage watch from Cartier, originality and case condition are especially important. Collectors should pay attention to:

  • Original dial with correct Cartier signature and typography

  • Proper case engravings and serial numbers

  • Correct cabochon crown

  • Matching movement type for the production period

Because Cartier watches often feature precious metals and distinctive case shapes, condition and originality strongly affect value.

Which vintage Cartier models are most collectible?

Some of the most sought-after vintage Cartier watches include:

  • Cartier Tank (Tank Louis, Tank Normale, Tank Américaine)

  • Cartier Santos early mechanical models

  • Cartier Crash

  • Cartier Baignoire

  • Vintage Cartier watches powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre movements

These models are prized for their design heritage, historical importance, and enduring elegance in the vintage watch market.

Are vintage Cartier watches a good investment?

Cartier holds a strong position in the vintage watch segment due to its iconic designs and global brand recognition. Models such as the Tank and Santos have demonstrated consistent long-term demand. Rare or early production examples, particularly in precious metals, continue to attract serious collectors of vintage watches.

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