Vintage Must de Cartier Tank, Ref. 681006, Trinity Dial, Roman Numerals from 1990s
If you've been looking for a Must de Cartier Tank that doesn't look like every other one, this one is for you. The Tank shape is familiar; the dial is not. This is the Trinity dial, which we haven't had before, and it's rarely seen.
The Trinity dial is named after Cartier's Trinity ring and uses the same three gold tones: yellow, rose and white. On this dial they appear as vertical stripes in the centre and around the outer border. A white chapter ring with black Roman numerals and a railway minute track sits between them. The "must de Cartier" signature is at the centre, and the hidden Cartier signature is set into one of the numerals. The blued hands stand out against the warm colours and match the blue cabochon crown.
The case is vermeil, 925 sterling silver with gold plating, which is the material the must de Cartier line is known for. Inside is the Swiss quartz Caliber 81. The watch has been serviced and is running well. It is an easy, reliable piece of 1990s vintage Swiss watchmaking to wear every day.
✓ Professional inspection by our watchmaker
✓ One-year warranty
✓ Express shipping included
✓ Carefully packed and ready to wear
CASE:
- Vermeil case made of 925 sterling silver with gold plating
- Classic rectangular Tank Must design with brancard sides
- Case size: 23 x 30 mm
- Crown set with a blue cabochon
- Ref. 681006
DIAL:
- Rare Trinity dial with stripes in yellow, rose and white gold tones
- White chapter ring with black Roman numerals
- Railway minute track
- "must de Cartier" signature at centre, with hidden Cartier signature in the numerals
- Blued steel hands
MOVEMENT:
- Swiss quartz movement, Caliber 81
- Swiss made
- Serviced, running and working as it should
Which Cartier watch is the most iconic - and why do collectors keep coming back to it?
Explore our guide to the Top 7 Most Popular Cartier Watches, from the legendary Tank to the bold Santos.
About Brand
What makes Cartier an important vintage watch brand?
Cartier, founded in 1847 in Paris, is one of the most influential names in luxury design and watchmaking. In the vintage watch market, Cartier is celebrated for pioneering shaped watch cases and transforming the wristwatch into a refined design object. Vintage Cartier watches combine strong aesthetic identity with Swiss mechanical expertise, making them highly desirable among collectors of elegant vintage watches.
Why is Cartier significant in vintage watch history?
Cartier was instrumental in popularizing the wristwatch for men in the early 20th century. The Cartier Santos, introduced in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is considered one of the earliest purpose-designed wristwatches. The Tank, introduced in 1917, became one of the most iconic watch designs ever created. These models helped shape the evolution of the modern vintage watch.
Are vintage Cartier watches suitable for everyday wear?
Many vintage Cartier watches were designed as refined dress watches, suitable for regular wear in formal or professional settings. Models powered by high-quality Swiss movements, including manual-wind calibers supplied by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, or ETA, are known for reliability when properly serviced. A well-maintained vintage Cartier watch can be worn daily while maintaining its collectible value.
What should collectors look for when buying a vintage Cartier watch?
When purchasing a vintage watch from Cartier, originality and case condition are especially important. Collectors should pay attention to:
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Original dial with correct Cartier signature and typography
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Proper case engravings and serial numbers
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Correct cabochon crown
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Matching movement type for the production period
Because Cartier watches often feature precious metals and distinctive case shapes, condition and originality strongly affect value.
Which vintage Cartier models are most collectible?
Some of the most sought-after vintage Cartier watches include:
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Cartier Tank (Tank Louis, Tank Normale, Tank Américaine)
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Cartier Santos early mechanical models
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Cartier Crash
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Cartier Baignoire
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Vintage Cartier watches powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre movements
These models are prized for their design heritage, historical importance, and enduring elegance in the vintage watch market.
Are vintage Cartier watches a good investment?
Cartier holds a strong position in the vintage watch segment due to its iconic designs and global brand recognition. Models such as the Tank and Santos have demonstrated consistent long-term demand. Rare or early production examples, particularly in precious metals, continue to attract serious collectors of vintage watches.
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