Vintage Cartier Santos Dumont, Quartz, Ref. 187901, Roman numerals, Date window from 1990's

Normaler Preis $4,600.00
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The Cartier Santos is one of those watches that needs very little introduction. Originally conceived in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, it is widely regarded as one of the first purpose-built wristwatches ever made. 

The 29mm × 41mm stainless steel case pairs a brushed steel body with a 18K yellow gold bezel - Or et Acier (French for "gold and steel"), secured by eight of the most recognizable screws in watchmaking. The off-white dial is clean and unhurried, with bold black Roman numerals, classic Cartier minute track, a date window at 6, and blued sword hands that contrast beautifully against the cream surface. A blue cabochon crown - Cartier's signature finishing touch - completes the picture. The Santos has been worn by icons across generations, from Andy Warhol to Tom Cruise, and it remains one of the most enduringly cool Swiss timepieces ever produced.

Professionally inspected and serviced by our watchmaker, running accurately and ready to wear. Comes with one-year warranty and express insured shipping - carefully packed and presented with two leather straps.

Which Cartier watch is the most iconic - and why do collectors keep coming back to it?
Explore our guide to the Top 7 Most Popular Cartier Watches, from the legendary Tank to the bold Santos.
Read the full article

CASE:

  • Stainless steel square case, 29mm × 41mm
  • 18K yellow gold polished bezel with 8 signature exposed screws
  • Two-tone "Or et Acier" construction - reference 187901
  • Brushed steel finish, blue cabochon-set octagonal crown
  • Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal

DIAL:

  • Off-white (cream) dial, clean and unrestored
  • Bold black Roman numerals; hidden Cartier signature in the VII marker
  • Classic Cartier railroad minute track
  • Date window at 6 o'clock
  • Blued steel sword hands

MOVEMENT:

  • Swiss quartz movement, battery-powered
  • Swiss Made
  • Date function
  • Professionally inspected, new battery fitted, running accurately
About Brand

What makes Cartier an important vintage watch brand?

Cartier, founded in 1847 in Paris, is one of the most influential names in luxury design and watchmaking. In the vintage watch market, Cartier is celebrated for pioneering shaped watch cases and transforming the wristwatch into a refined design object. Vintage Cartier watches combine strong aesthetic identity with Swiss mechanical expertise, making them highly desirable among collectors of elegant vintage watches.

Why is Cartier significant in vintage watch history?

Cartier was instrumental in popularizing the wristwatch for men in the early 20th century. The Cartier Santos, introduced in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is considered one of the earliest purpose-designed wristwatches. The Tank, introduced in 1917, became one of the most iconic watch designs ever created. These models helped shape the evolution of the modern vintage watch.

Are vintage Cartier watches suitable for everyday wear?

Many vintage Cartier watches were designed as refined dress watches, suitable for regular wear in formal or professional settings. Models powered by high-quality Swiss movements, including manual-wind calibers supplied by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, or ETA, are known for reliability when properly serviced. A well-maintained vintage Cartier watch can be worn daily while maintaining its collectible value.

What should collectors look for when buying a vintage Cartier watch?

When purchasing a vintage watch from Cartier, originality and case condition are especially important. Collectors should pay attention to:

  • Original dial with correct Cartier signature and typography

  • Proper case engravings and serial numbers

  • Correct cabochon crown

  • Matching movement type for the production period

Because Cartier watches often feature precious metals and distinctive case shapes, condition and originality strongly affect value.

Which vintage Cartier models are most collectible?

Some of the most sought-after vintage Cartier watches include:

  • Cartier Tank (Tank Louis, Tank Normale, Tank Américaine)

  • Cartier Santos early mechanical models

  • Cartier Crash

  • Cartier Baignoire

  • Vintage Cartier watches powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre movements

These models are prized for their design heritage, historical importance, and enduring elegance in the vintage watch market.

Are vintage Cartier watches a good investment?

Cartier holds a strong position in the vintage watch segment due to its iconic designs and global brand recognition. Models such as the Tank and Santos have demonstrated consistent long-term demand. Rare or early production examples, particularly in precious metals, continue to attract serious collectors of vintage watches.

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