Vintage Must de Cartier Vendôme, Ref. 590004, Lapis Lazuli Dial, Quartz, Vermeil Case from 1990's
When Cartier launched Les Must de Cartier in 1973, the goal was to bring Cartier design to a younger, wider audience. The first vermeil watches followed in 1976–77, and the round Vendôme soon became one of the line’s defining shapes. This ref. 590004 from the 1990s comes with one of the collection’s more distinctive dial options: lapis lazuli.
The 24mm Vendôme case is vermeil: 925 sterling silver with a 20-micron gold plating, stamped “Argent, Plaqué Or G 20M” on the caseback. The articulated Vendôme lugs and fluted crown with a blue cabochon give it the familiar Cartier look. The deep blue dial has fine gold flecks and almost nothing else on it, just the must de Cartier signature, the double C logo and slim gold-tone hands.
Inside is a Swiss quartz movement, Cartier Caliber 81, recently serviced with a new battery. It is an easy-to-wear ladies vintage watch from one of the great Swiss watchmakers, made to be worn every day.
✓ Professional inspection by our watchmaker
✓ One-year warranty
✓ Express shipping included
✓ Carefully packed and ready to wear
CASE:
Vermeil case: 925 sterling silver with 20-micron gold plating (Plaqué Or G 20M)
Classic Vendôme round case with articulated lugs
Case diameter: 24mm
Fluted crown set with a blue cabochon
Caseback signed Cartier Paris, with 925 and Argent hallmarks
Reference: 590004
DIAL:
Lapis lazuli dial in deep blue with natural gold flecks
“must de Cartier” signature at 12
No numerals or hour markers
Slim gold-tone sword hands
“Swiss” signed at the bottom
MOVEMENT:
Swiss quartz movement
Swiss made
Recently serviced, new battery fitted
Running and functioning as expected
STRAP:
Black aftermarket leather strap
Which Cartier watch is the most iconic - and why do collectors keep coming back to it?
Explore our guide to the Top 7 Most Popular Cartier Watches, from the legendary Tank to the bold Santos.
About Brand
What makes Cartier an important vintage watch brand?
Cartier, founded in 1847 in Paris, is one of the most influential names in luxury design and watchmaking. In the vintage watch market, Cartier is celebrated for pioneering shaped watch cases and transforming the wristwatch into a refined design object. Vintage Cartier watches combine strong aesthetic identity with Swiss mechanical expertise, making them highly desirable among collectors of elegant vintage watches.
Why is Cartier significant in vintage watch history?
Cartier was instrumental in popularizing the wristwatch for men in the early 20th century. The Cartier Santos, introduced in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is considered one of the earliest purpose-designed wristwatches. The Tank, introduced in 1917, became one of the most iconic watch designs ever created. These models helped shape the evolution of the modern vintage watch.
Are vintage Cartier watches suitable for everyday wear?
Many vintage Cartier watches were designed as refined dress watches, suitable for regular wear in formal or professional settings. Models powered by high-quality Swiss movements, including manual-wind calibers supplied by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, or ETA, are known for reliability when properly serviced. A well-maintained vintage Cartier watch can be worn daily while maintaining its collectible value.
What should collectors look for when buying a vintage Cartier watch?
When purchasing a vintage watch from Cartier, originality and case condition are especially important. Collectors should pay attention to:
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Original dial with correct Cartier signature and typography
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Proper case engravings and serial numbers
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Correct cabochon crown
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Matching movement type for the production period
Because Cartier watches often feature precious metals and distinctive case shapes, condition and originality strongly affect value.
Which vintage Cartier models are most collectible?
Some of the most sought-after vintage Cartier watches include:
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Cartier Tank (Tank Louis, Tank Normale, Tank Américaine)
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Cartier Santos early mechanical models
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Cartier Crash
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Cartier Baignoire
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Vintage Cartier watches powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre movements
These models are prized for their design heritage, historical importance, and enduring elegance in the vintage watch market.
Are vintage Cartier watches a good investment?
Cartier holds a strong position in the vintage watch segment due to its iconic designs and global brand recognition. Models such as the Tank and Santos have demonstrated consistent long-term demand. Rare or early production examples, particularly in precious metals, continue to attract serious collectors of vintage watches.
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Watch servicing information
All watches in our shop are in full working condition, having been professionally serviced by a certified watchmaker. Each watch undergoes a final inspection prior to shipping to ensure quality and reliability.
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Warranty
Each watch purchased from us includes a warranty to ensure its quality and performance. The warranty covers movement and functional issues, with specific terms based on the type of watch (1 year for mechanical and automatic watches, 6 months for quartz watches). For more details, please visit this page.
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