Vintage Universal Genève, Military Swiss Watch, Cal. 262 from 1940's - DuMarko

Vintage Universal Geneve, Radium Dial, Military Swiss Watch, Cal. 262 from 1940's

Name: Vintage Universal Geneve, Radium Dial, Military Swiss Watch, Cal. 262 from 1940's
Brand: DuMarko
Price: 1490.00 USD
Availability: InStock

$1,490.00

USA & EU: Taxes and import duties included

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The Universal Genève Cal. 262 military-style watch was produced during the 1940s, a period when the brand was making robust and highly legible timepieces for both military and civilian use. Built for reliability in demanding conditions, these watches combined compact steel cases, luminous numerals, and simple functionality, all powered by the hand-wound Cal. 262.

This example is an outstanding survivor, preserved in near new-old-stock condition. The 31 mm stainless steel caseretains its original factory shape with sharp edges, clean brushing, and no evidence of polishing. The fixed lugs are crisp, and the caseback engravings remain deep and legible.

The dial is completely original, with printed Arabic numerals, radium lume plots, and a sub-seconds register at 6 o’clock. The only sign of age is a light, even patina across the dial, which enhances its vintage appeal without detracting from legibility. The cathedral-style hour and minute hands still show their lume, and the blued-steel seconds handadds a beautiful period touch.

CASE:

31 mm stainless steel case (without crown) / 38 mm lug-to-lug
Fixed lugs, military-style construction
Brushed caseback with clear engravings: 858316 / 31217
Excellent, near NOS condition

MOVEMENT:

Universal Genève Cal. 262
Manual wind, 15 jewels, 18,000 A/h, approx. 38-hour power reserve
Reliable and robust, produced throughout the 1940s and 1950s
Running well and fully functional

DIAL:

Original silver-white dial with black Arabic numerals
Radium lume plots at each hour, nicely aged(if you are concerned with safety of the radium, please read our article)
Sub-seconds at 6 o’clock with railroad track
Cathedral-style hour and minute hands with lume, blued-steel small seconds hand
Even, attractive patina, otherwise in excellent preserved condition

Scared of radium? No worries - see if it safe to wear radium watches here!

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About Brand

What makes Universal Genève an important vintage watch brand?

Universal Genève is one of the most respected names in high-grade Swiss watchmaking, founded in 1894. The brand is especially revered in the vintage watch world for its early mastery of chronograph complications, refined case design, and collaboration with some of the most influential designers of the 20th century. Today, vintage Universal Genève watches are considered connoisseur pieces within the vintage watch market.

Why is Universal Genève significant in vintage watch history?

Universal Genève played a pioneering role in the development of wrist-worn chronographs. The brand produced some of the earliest and most elegant chronograph designs of the 1930s–1960s. Models powered by in-house movements such as the caliber 285 and caliber 281 helped define the technical standards for vintage chronographs and influenced later generations of watchmakers.

Are vintage Universal Genève watches suitable for everyday wear?

Many vintage Universal Genève watches were designed as functional yet refined instruments. Time-only models and early chronographs were built with durability in mind, though they are now often worn more carefully due to their rarity. When properly serviced, a vintage Universal Genève watch can still be worn regularly while preserving its status as a collectible vintage watch.

What should collectors look for when buying a vintage Universal Genève watch?

When buying a vintage watch from Universal Genève, originality is especially important. Collectors should look for:

Original dials with correct fonts and layouts
Matching case references and movement calibers
Untouched cases with sharp geometry
Period-correct hands and crowns

Because many Universal Genève watches were produced in smaller numbers, correct and original examples command strong premiums in the vintage watch market.

Which Universal Genève vintage models are most collectible?

Some of the most sought-after vintage Universal Genève watches include:

Universal Genève Compax chronographs
Tri-Compax models featuring triple calendar and moonphase
Uni-Compax single-register chronographs
Early Polerouter models designed by Gérald Genta
Chronographs powered by caliber 281 and caliber 285

These models are highly prized for their design sophistication, mechanical quality, and historical importance.

Are vintage Universal Genève watches a good investment?

Universal Genève is widely regarded as an undervalued brand in the vintage watch market relative to its historical importance. As collector awareness grows, well-preserved examples—especially Compax and Tri-Compax models—have shown strong appreciation. Original vintage Universal Genève watches are increasingly difficult to find, supporting long-term collector demand.

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