Vintage Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil Ref. 3 66001, Art Deco, Two-tone Lemon Dial from 1980’s

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This Cartier Tank Must de Vermeil Ref. 3 66001 offers everything collectors and design lovers admire about the classic Tank, with a unique twist. Its distinctive “lemon” dial and bold Art Deco Roman motif make it one of the more striking variations from the Must de Cartier line—subtle, but unmistakably Cartier.

The vermeil case (gold-plated over sterling silver) has been professionally polished and presents in excellent condition, while the quartz movement keeps things simple and reliable.

This vintage Cartier Tank Must de Vermeil offers a distinctive take on the classic Tank silhouette, perfect for collectors and those with a sharp eye for timeless design. A wearable piece of 1980s Cartier history, with an edge that still feels fresh today.

CASE:

  • Vermeil case (18k gold-plated sterling silver)
  • Size: 18 mm x 25 mm (without crown)
  • Iconic blue sapphire cabochon crown
  • Reference: 3 66001

MOVEMENT:

  • Cartier Caliber 057 – Swiss quartz
  • Battery-powered and keeping accurate time
  • Low-maintenance and ideal for daily or occasional wear

DIAL:

  • Two-tone dial with bold Art Deco Roman motif
  • "Must de Cartier" signature at 12 o'clock
  • Blued sword hands in excellent condition
  • “Swiss” signed below 6 o’clock

Curious about the differences between gold, gold-plated, gold-filled, and gold-capped watches?

Read our guide: What’s the Real Difference — Gold, Gold-Plated, Gold-Filled, or Gold-Capped Watches

About Brand

What makes Cartier an important vintage watch brand?

Cartier, founded in 1847 in Paris, is one of the most influential names in luxury design and watchmaking. In the vintage watch market, Cartier is celebrated for pioneering shaped watch cases and transforming the wristwatch into a refined design object. Vintage Cartier watches combine strong aesthetic identity with Swiss mechanical expertise, making them highly desirable among collectors of elegant vintage watches.

Why is Cartier significant in vintage watch history?

Cartier was instrumental in popularizing the wristwatch for men in the early 20th century. The Cartier Santos, introduced in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is considered one of the earliest purpose-designed wristwatches. The Tank, introduced in 1917, became one of the most iconic watch designs ever created. These models helped shape the evolution of the modern vintage watch.

Are vintage Cartier watches suitable for everyday wear?

Many vintage Cartier watches were designed as refined dress watches, suitable for regular wear in formal or professional settings. Models powered by high-quality Swiss movements, including manual-wind calibers supplied by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, or ETA, are known for reliability when properly serviced. A well-maintained vintage Cartier watch can be worn daily while maintaining its collectible value.

What should collectors look for when buying a vintage Cartier watch?

When purchasing a vintage watch from Cartier, originality and case condition are especially important. Collectors should pay attention to:

  • Original dial with correct Cartier signature and typography

  • Proper case engravings and serial numbers

  • Correct cabochon crown

  • Matching movement type for the production period

Because Cartier watches often feature precious metals and distinctive case shapes, condition and originality strongly affect value.

Which vintage Cartier models are most collectible?

Some of the most sought-after vintage Cartier watches include:

  • Cartier Tank (Tank Louis, Tank Normale, Tank Américaine)

  • Cartier Santos early mechanical models

  • Cartier Crash

  • Cartier Baignoire

  • Vintage Cartier watches powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre movements

These models are prized for their design heritage, historical importance, and enduring elegance in the vintage watch market.

Are vintage Cartier watches a good investment?

Cartier holds a strong position in the vintage watch segment due to its iconic designs and global brand recognition. Models such as the Tank and Santos have demonstrated consistent long-term demand. Rare or early production examples, particularly in precious metals, continue to attract serious collectors of vintage watches.

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