Vintage Longines Swiss Mechanical Watch, Cal. 12.68Z, Patek Philippe Calatrava Style from 1937
This vintage Longines dates to 1937 and shows the brand’s early approach to clean, well-balanced watch design. The dial has been professionally restored, keeping a simple and classic layout that suits the watch’s original character. Slim applied hour markers, blued steel hands, and a recessed small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock give it a clear and easy-to-read appearance.
The dial layout and proportions are reminiscent of the restrained style later made famous by watches like the Patek Philippe Calatrava, with an emphasis on symmetry and simplicity rather than decoration. The result is a timeless look that still feels relevant today.
The stainless steel case measures 33mm in diameter, which was a typical size for the period. The case lines are clean and understated, and the watch wears comfortably on the wrist thanks to its balanced proportions.
Inside is the Longines Caliber 12.68Z, a manual-wind movement widely used by the brand in the 1930s. Known for its solid construction and smooth operation, it remains a respected movement among collectors.
CASE
33mm diameter
Stainless steel case
Crown at 3 o’clock
MOVEMENT
Longines Caliber 12.68Z
Mechanical, manual wind
Serial number 5557064 (1937)
DIAL
Professionally restored dial
Blued steel hands
Small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock
About Brand
Is Longines a popular vintage watch brand?
Yes, Longines is one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers still operating under its original name, founded in 1832. The brand is especially respected in the vintage watch market for its in-house movements, refined case designs, and long-standing role in professional timing. Vintage Longines watches are known for their balance between elegance and technical precision, making them highly desirable among collectors of classic Swiss watches.
Why is Longines important in vintage watch history?
Longines played a crucial role in aviation, navigation, and sports timing throughout the 20th century. The brand supplied chronographs and navigation watches to pilots and military forces, including well-known pilot watches from the 1930s and 1940s. Models powered by legendary movements such as the Longines 13ZN and 30CH chronograph calibers are considered milestones in vintage watchmaking and remain highly collectible today.
Are vintage Longines watches good for everyday wear?
Yes. Many vintage Longines watches were designed as reliable tool or dress watches intended for daily use. Time-only models powered by movements like the Longines caliber 12.68Z, 23Z, or 30L are especially well regarded for their durability and smooth operation. When properly serviced, a vintage Longines watch can be worn regularly while retaining its value as a collectible vintage watch.
What should collectors look for when buying a vintage Longines watch?
When purchasing a vintage watch from Longines, collectors should prioritize originality and correct configuration. Important details include:
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Original dial with period-correct printing
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Matching case reference and movement caliber
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Correct Longines serial numbers
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Signs of professional servicing
Longines movements are particularly valued for their high-quality finishing and technical sophistication, even in non-chronograph models.
Which vintage Longines models are most collectible?
Some of the most sought-after vintage Longines watches include:
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Chronographs powered by the 13ZN or 30CH movements
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Military and pilot watches from the 1930s–1940s
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Classic dress watches from the 1940s–1960s with large steel cases
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Early Longines Conquest and Flagship models
These watches are prized for their historical relevance, movement quality, and timeless design within the vintage watch market.
Are vintage Longines watches a good investment?
Longines offers strong value in the vintage watch segment. Compared to many high-profile luxury brands, vintage Longines watches often remain more accessible while offering true in-house movements and documented historical importance. Well-preserved examples, especially those with desirable calibers or original dials, show consistent collector demand and long-term appeal.
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