The founder of the famous watch brand Tissot was Charles-Félicien Tissot. In 1853, he opened his factory in Switzerland and ran it alongside his son. The company was named "Charles Tissot & Son." Interestingly, his son was also named Charles, and the factory workers were farmers who sought extra income during the winter.
Early Success and Entry into Russia
In the 19th century, watchmakers had to find unique ways to survive. While brands like Longines gained an edge through constant innovation, Tissot focused on promoting their products in foreign markets. Five years after establishing the company, Charles-Émile Tissot traveled to Russia to find clients for their pocket watches. The quality of Tissot watches was so high that, eight years later, the company was honored with the title of official supplier to the Russian Imperial Court. This success was due in part to Tissot's internal quality control, which ensured only watches meeting strict standards were sold.
Realizing the value of international travel, Charles-Émile Tissot spent over 50 years promoting the brand worldwide, undertaking more than 50 journeys. Historians estimate that he spent a total of 7 years and 99 days traveling. The brand’s visibility also grew through regular participation in exhibitions, where Tissot won awards such as gold medals, Grand Prizes at Paris exhibitions, and diplomas from prestigious observatories.
Tissot and Omega: A Strategic Partnership
In the 1930s, Tissot joined forces with Omega, founded by Louis Brandt, to combat growing competition. The merger formed the SSIH (Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère S.A.), where Tissot focused on mid-range watches while Omega produced luxury models. SSIH grew to become a large corporation, eventually including about 50 companies. However, financial challenges in the 1980s forced SSIH to merge with ASUAG, forming a new holding company, later renamed Swatch Group Ltd.
Notable Early Models
Tissot’s early pocket watches were known for their robust construction, with thick cases and tightly closing covers that made them durable and long-lasting. Many of these 19th-century pieces have survived in excellent condition. Despite their sturdy build, early watches had elegant dials with fine hands and numerals.
One standout was the Tissot Two Time Zones, designed for travelers moving between Europe and Asia. These watches displayed time in two zones without needing manual adjustments, helping Tissot carve out its niche in the competitive watch market.
For more affordable models, Tissot replaced precious metal cases with steel or other materials and simplified the designs. Pocket watches created for the Russian market featured finely crafted cases and high-quality mechanisms, often incorporating Russian decorative styles. One of the most popular models was the Tissot Pendant, favored by high society for its elegance and status.
Military Models
Charles-Émile Tissot frequently traveled to Russia, introducing innovations such as the world’s first military watches in 1891. By 1904, Tissot was producing watches for the Russian Imperial Army. These watches featured engraved crests, regimental monograms, and dedications in Russian, such as a model commemorating the Preobrazhensky Regiment’s service in 1877.
To meet the demands of military supply, Tissot invested in modern equipment and transitioned to factory production, enabling them to deliver military watches even during World War I. Military models were typically made with simple steel cases, black dials, and luminous hands for visibility in the dark.
Wristwatches and Unique Designs
In 1912, Tissot followed competitors like Longines into the wristwatch market. Among their early models was the Banana Watch, a rectangular, slightly curved design that fit comfortably on the wrist. While initially unconventional, non-circular cases eventually gained acceptance.
In 1930, Tissot introduced the world’s first antimagnetic watches, solving the problem of magnetic fields disrupting the accuracy of watch movements. Tissot achieved this by using non-magnetic materials and protective coatings. The innovation earned Tissot a lasting reputation, with the "ANTIMAGNETIQUE" marking appearing on its watches.
Later, Tissot created the first mechanical plastic watches, known as Astrolon or IDEA 2000. These lightweight watches required no lubrication and were more resistant to magnetism. However, their faster wear rate made them more popular with younger audiences.
Touch Technology and Modern Innovations
In the late 1990s, Tissot pioneered touchscreen watches, introducing the Touch Silen-T model. This watch vibrated when touched to indicate the time, appealing to busy professionals. Modern tactile watches, branded as T-Touch, now include features like thermometers, compasses, and barometers.
Tissot has also experimented with unique materials, such as stone cases sourced from around the world.
Watch Markings and Branding
Tissot watches bear distinctive markings, often featuring the factory's name, such as "Tissot" or "Ch.F. Tissot & Fils." Early markings included phrases like "Ch.F. Tissot & Fils Locle" to denote their Swiss origins. After transitioning to serial production in the 1920s, Tissot introduced stamped markings instead of hand-painted ones. Today, most watches display the brand’s name alongside the founding year (1853).
Some models also include additional inscriptions indicating unique features, such as "ANTIMAGNETIQUE" for antimagnetic watches. Serial numbers engraved on the case can help identify a watch’s production year using Tissot catalogs.
Legacy and Recognition
From supplying the Russian Imperial Court to pioneering antimagnetic and touchscreen watches, Tissot’s legacy is built on innovation, quality, and timeless design. Today, the brand remains a leader in the global watch industry, known for its blend of tradition and modernity.