How to Service Vintage Watches: Full Expert Guide

What Is Vintage Watch Servicing? A Complete Definition

Vintage watch servicing, sometimes called overhaul or revision, is a detailed mechanical restoration process performed on timepieces that are often decades — sometimes nearly a century — old. These watches rely entirely on mechanical systems composed of delicate gears, springs, balance wheels, and jewel bearings. Over time, oils dry, friction increases, and microscopic wear begins to spread across the movement.

A proper vintage watch service is not simply “cleaning the watch.”
It is a full disassembly and reconditioning process which includes: 

• complete breakdown of the movement
• cleaning every component using specialized watch-cleaning formulas
• identifying worn or damaged parts (many now obsolete)
• repairing or replacing components with original-era parts
• lubrication with several types of modern high-grade oils
• reassembly in exact manufacturer order
• regulation, timing, amplitude, and beat testing
• multi-position accuracy verification
• gentle case cleaning
• final testing over 24–48 hours

Whether you own a vintage Omega Seamaster or old Longines, a 1970s Rolex Datejust, a Universal Genève, or even an antique pocket watch, the process is similar — but the sensitivity, difficulty, and risks vary by brand and age.

Why Vintage Watch Servicing Is Different from Modern Servicing

Vintage watches require a fundamentally different approach from modern pieces because:

1. Parts are discontinued.
Omega 30T2, Longines 12.68Z, Rolex 1575 — many of their components are no longer produced. A vintage watch specialist must know how to:

• source donor movements
• purchase NOS (new old stock) parts
• fabricate parts manually when needed

2. Materials are aged and fragile.
Bridges, screws, date wheels, wheels, and pinions may be brittle after decades of humidity, oxidation, and mechanical stress.

3. Radium lume requires extreme caution.
Many watches from 1930–1960 used radium, a radioactive substance. Opening the dial side without caution can spread harmful particles.

4. Vintage dial surfaces are extremely delicate.
Even wiping them can remove original print.

5. Tolerances vary widely.
Early movements were hand-finished; no two are exactly alike. This requires intuition and experience to regulate properly.

Because of these factors, general jewelers or basic repair shops cannot handle antique watch repair safely. Only a trained vintage watch specialist should service such pieces.

Why Servicing Vintage Watches Matters More Than You Think

People often assume that if a vintage watch is ticking, it must be healthy. But like a car running with no oil, a watch may still function while suffering catastrophic internal wear.

A mechanical watch runs 28,800 vibrations per hour (or 18,000 for older calibers).
That’s hundreds of thousands of micro-impacts every day.
Oils evaporate.
Friction rises.
Metal begins to grind.

Without intervention, the watch can permanently damage itself.

Hidden Damage Inside a Non-Serviced Watch

Inside a movement that hasn’t been professionally serviced for five, ten, or even twenty years, the following issues are common:

1. Dried or evaporated oil

Old lubrication turns sticky or fully evaporates, causing metal-to-metal friction on:

• gear pivots
• escape wheel teeth
• pallet stones
• winding system components
• rotor bearings (in automatics)

This accelerates wear exponentially.

2. Metallic dust contamination

As friction increases, microscopic metal shavings accumulate and spread through the movement. These particles:

• scratch bridges and plates
• embed in pivot holes
• disrupt the escapement
• reduce amplitude significantly

3. Worn or ovalized pivot holes

Jewel holes become misshapen (ovalized) over time. This changes gear alignment and leads to unstable timekeeping.

4. Rust and oxidation

Even minimal moisture exposure — humidity, condensation, sweat — can lead to:

• rust on screws
• corrosion under bridges
• pitting on steel parts
• discolored wheels

Vintage Rolex and Omega are especially sensitive at the crown tube.

5. Compromised mainspring

After decades:

• mainsprings lose tension
• crack
• slip
• unwind unevenly

This affects power reserve and amplitude.

6. Loose jewels or cracked jewels

Shock or age can cause jewels to dislodge. Once jewels shift, friction points change dramatically.

7. Misaligned escapement

Even a slight misalignment leads to:

• inconsistent tick rate
• low amplitude
• inaccurate timing
• sudden stopping

8. Wear on automatic rotor axles

Vintage Omega calibers 550, 552, 565 are famous for rotor wear, which can scratch the movement and case back.

All these issues may remain invisible to the owner but dramatically impact the watch’s lifespan.

Why Vintage Movements Are More Sensitive

Modern watches use advanced alloys, shock protection systems, synthetic oils, and CNC-machined components. Vintage watches do not.

Older lubricants degrade faster

Vintage watches originally used natural oils that dry faster than modern synthetics.

Early shock protection is less effective

Pre-1960 watches may lack shock systems entirely or use outdated versions.

Metal alloys are softer

Early watch components used softer steel and brass, which wear faster under friction.

Hand-made components vary

Vintage watchmakers hand-finished pivots, wheels, and bridges. No two pieces are identical, requiring careful adjustment.

Moisture protection is minimal

Snap-on case backs, acrylic crystals, and old gaskets offer very little water resistance.

Radium lume is fragile

Touching it can cause flaking or radioactive particle release.

Because of these factors, antique and vintage watch repair must be performed with patience, precision, and respect for original materials.

How Often Should You Service Vintage Watches?

Servicing intervals depend on the watch’s age, brand, design, lubrication type, and wear frequency. Vintage watches were designed at a time when regular maintenance was expected — they are not “set and forget” devices. Understanding the proper servicing timeline is crucial to prevent expensive antique watch repair down the road.

General Rule for Vintage Timepieces: Every 4–5 Years

Most vintage watches — especially mechanical Swiss pieces — need a full overhaul every 4 to 5 years. This applies to:

• vintage Omega
• vintage Longines
• vintage Rolex
• Universal Genève
• Tissot
• Doxa
• Movado
• Zenith
• Enicar
• International Watch Co. (IWC)
• Vintage Cartier watch repair (mechanical models)

However, some brands require service more frequently, depending on construction.

Omega 

Vintage Omega watches — such as the legendary 30T2, 550-series automatics (552, 561, 565), 601/603, and 861 Speedmaster movements — are beautifully engineered but require consistent care.

Why Omega needs servicing every 4–5 years:

1. Rotors wear heavily
   Omega’s automatic systems often develop rotor wobble. If left unserviced, the rotor scrapes the movement or case back.
2. Dried oils affect regulation quickly
   Omega’s escapements rely on precise lubrication. When oils dry, performance drops sharply.
3. Calendar mechanisms are delicate
   Improper lubrication can cause date jumper wear.
4. Parts availability fluctuates
   Many Omega vintage components are now expensive or scarce.

Servicing frequency for Omega:

• Manual-wind calibers → every 4–5 years
• Automatic calibers → every 4 years
• Chronographs (861, 321) → every 4–5 years

Vintage Omega service cost at an independent specialist is typically much more reasonable than Omega Service Centers.

Longines

Longines is known for high-precision calibers with fine tolerances — from early pocket watches to 12.68Z dress watches and 990 ultra-thin movements.

Typical issues requiring regular service:

1. Fine tolerances mean small issues become big problems
   Longines movements were often hand-finished, making each watch slightly unique.
2. Delicate winding stems and crown wheels
   Longines stems are more prone to wear if lubrication dries.
3. Bridges and jewels at risk of ovalization
   Over time, lack of lubrication causes pivot holes to deform.
4. Complication-friendly but delicate
   Triple calendars, moonphases, and chronographs need careful servicing.

Recommended interval:

Every 4–6 years, depending on usage.

Longines is one of the most rewarding brands to maintain, and with proper antique watch repair, these movements can last indefinitely.

Rolex

Rolex movements like 1210, 1225, 1520, 1570, 3035, 3135 are extremely durable — more so than most vintage watches — but this does NOT mean they can run without maintenance.

Rolex issues requiring 5–7 year service intervals:

1. Automatic mechanisms rely heavily on clean lubrication
   Rolex has a robust autowind system, but dry oils cause rotor axle wear.
2. Balance wheels are extremely precise
   Rolex balances perform best when serviced regularly.
3. Date mechanism complexity
   Calibers like 3035 and 3135 require clean lubrication on the quickset system.
4. Gasket aging
   Even “Oyster” cases lose water resistance when:

• tubes wear
• crowns age
• crystals deform

Recommended interval:

Every 5–7 years, depending on use.

Vintage Rolex service cost is significantly lower at independent specialists compared to the Rolex Service Center — especially for collectors who want originality preserved.

Other Swiss Makers

Universal Genève — often needs servicing every 4 years

Movements like 215, 218, 289 are delicate and expensive to repair.

Zenith — every 4–5 years

El Primero chronographs need extremely clean lubrication.

Tissot / Doxa / Enicar — every 4–5 years

Affordable but sensitive to dried oils.

Cartier

Vintage Cartier watch repair frequency depends on movement supplier (ETA, Piaget, LeCoultre). Typically every 4–5 years.

Antique pocket watches — every 3–4 years

Due to high torque and old oils.

Full Step-by-Step Breakdown of a Professional Vintage Watch Service

This is the heart of the guide and arguably the most important part for collectors. A proper vintage watch servicing operation follows an extremely strict order to ensure that the watch is restored correctly without damaging originality.

Step 1 – Initial Functional Assessment

Before opening the watch, a vintage watch specialist evaluates:

• winding smoothness
• resistance or grinding in the crown
• rotor noise (automatics)
• hand setting feel
• date jump sharpness
• day/date alignment
• power reserve behavior
• tick rhythm (listened with an ear or electronic stethoscope)
• accuracy on a timegrapher in “as received” condition

This helps identify:

• worn barrels
• escapement problems
• low amplitude
• early signs of damage

A good specialist will write these notes down before beginning antique watch repair.

Step 2 – External Case & Dial Examination

The goal is to assess cosmetic and structural condition without disturbing originality.

Key inspections:

• dial: patina, texture, radium/tritium condition, printing sharpness
• hands: corrosion, lume stability, alignment
• case: dents, scratches, hallmarks, edges
• crown: correct or replaced?
• crystal: original acrylic/plastic/mineral
• pushers (chronographs): stiffness or corrosion
• bezel (Rolex/Omega/Tudor): alignment or play

Vintage watch servicing must avoid:

• rubbing the dial
• polishing the case
• touching lume flakes
• disturbing radium particles

This step is crucial for preserving value.

Step 3 – Opening the Case & Inspecting the Movement

A vintage specialist uses the correct tools:

• Jaxa wrenches
• Rolex 29.5/28.5 openers
• case knives with safety guards
• friction balls
• Omega case back dies

Inside, the specialist examines:

• oil condition
• pivot wear
• signs of previous repair attempts
• stripped screws
• corrosion under bridges
• loose jewels
• broken shock springs
• rotor axle wear (Omega common issue)
• balance staff straightness
• early-stage rust

This stage determines what parts may need replacement or donor sourcing.

Step 4 – Complete Disassembly of the Movement

This is one of the most delicate parts of the process.

The watchmaker removes:

• hands
• dial
• calendar works
• motion works
• train wheels
• escapement
• pallet fork
• balance assembly
• barrel and mainspring
• keyless works
• bridges
• plates
• screws
• springs
• automatic winding module (if present)

Chronographs require disassembly of:

• coupling clutch
• chronograph wheel
• operating levers
• hammer
• brake
• reset system

Pocket watches often include:

• fusee chain
• verge escapement
• decorative plates

Each part is placed in compartment trays to prevent loss — tiny screws are priceless in antique watch repair.

Step 5 – Ultrasonic Cleaning (Three-Stage Deep Cleaning)

Parts are placed into specialized machine baskets and cleaned in three stages:

Stage 1 – Solvent Cleaning

Removes oils, carbonized lubricants, metal particles.

Stage 2 – Two Rinse Cycles

Ensures no chemical residue remains.

Stage 3 – Hot Air Drying

Prevents oxidation.

Crystal, dial, and case are NOT placed in the machine — only metal components.

Cleaning old watches is a crucial step, especially for vintage Rolex repair and vintage Omega servicing.

Step 6 – Mainspring Service or Replacement

The mainspring is the engine of the watch.

Options:

Reuse the original mainspring

Only if the watch is historically valuable and the spring is in good condition.

Install a new mainspring

This improves:

• amplitude
• power reserve
• accuracy
• reliability

Automatic watches often require slip-spring lubrication.

Antique pocket watch repair often requires hand-winding mainspring adjustments.

Step 7 – Gear Train Examination 

The watchmaker inspects:

• gear tooth shape and wear
• pivot thickness and straightness
• jewel hole condition
• end-shake and side-shake
• freedom of movement under no load

Any friction indicates deeper damage.

Vintage chronograph repair requires extra care because the gear train interacts with the chronograph module.

Step 8 – Escapement Adjustment

The escapement controls the watch’s precision.

The specialist checks:

• pallet fork integrity
• pallet stones position
• escape wheel teeth condition
• lock and drop
• impulse jewel alignment
• roller table clean lines
• beat symmetry

Improper escapement tuning is the biggest cause of poor performance in vintage watches.

Step 9 – Lubrication with High-Precision Oils

Modern servicing uses 6–10 types of oils and greases.
Vintage watch servicing requires:

• Moebius 9010 for fast-moving pivots
• Moebius 9415 for escapements
• Moebius HP1300 or D5 for train wheels
• Grease for keyless works
• Barrel lubrication
• Automatic module lubrication (Rolex reverser wheels, Omega rotor bearing)

Over-oiling or under-oiling destroys watches.

This is where true antique watch specialists stand out.

Step 10 – Reassembly in Correct Order

Reassembling a vintage watch movement is one of the most technical aspects of antique and vintage watch repair. Every component must be installed in a precise order. Even a single misaligned wheel or incorrectly tightened screw can stop the watch entirely.

Reassembly procedures include:

• reinstalling bridges and plates
• setting the gear train in perfect alignment
• adjusting end-shake and side-shake during assembly
• reinstalling the barrel and properly lubricated mainspring
• setting the motion works (keyless, setting lever, yoke, stem engagement)
• reinstalling the escapement and balance wheel
• verifying that the train runs freely under its own power

A trained eye can detect even a subtle deviation in wheel height or pivot placement — something general jewelers or non-specialists would never notice.

Rolex-specific concerns:

• correct placement of the auto-winding bridge
• lubrication of reverser wheels (sensitive to contamination)
• aligning calendar switching mechanism
• proper tension of calendar jumper

Omega-specific concerns:

• rotor axle alignment in 5xx and 6xx calibers
• preventing rotor scraping
• adjusting date mechanisms in Omega 565 / 563

Longines-specific concerns:

• precise fingertip installation of fragile calendar springs
• precise seating of thin bridges
• ultra-sensitive screw torque

Reassembly is where real craftsmanship becomes visible.

Step 11 – Regulation on a Timegrapher

A timegrapher is an essential diagnostic tool that displays:

• rate (accuracy per day)
• amplitude (energy of the balance wheel)
• beat error (difference between tick and tock timing)
• signal clarity (noise patterns)

Typical expectations for a well-serviced vintage watch:

• Rate: ±60 to ±90 seconds/day (depending on age and condition)
• Beat error: 0.0–1.0 ms
• Amplitude: 230–270° (manual wind); 210–260° (automatics)

Collectors often misunderstand accuracy expectations. A vintage mechanical watch simply cannot match the performance of modern COSC chronometers.

For antique pocket watches, acceptable variance is even wider due to older escapements and long mainsprings.

Step 12 – Amplitude Testing

Amplitude measures how far the balance wheel swings — a key indication of health.

Healthy amplitude ranges:

• Manual wind vintage watches: 230–270°
• Vintage automatic watches: 210–260°
• Vintage chronographs: 200–240° (due to complexity)
• Antique pocket watches: 180–220°

Low amplitude indicates:

• old or low-quality oil
• friction in the escapement
• worn pivots
• cracked jewels
• weakened mainspring
• incorrect lubrication

A professional vintage watch specialist will always address low amplitude before reassembly is complete.

Step 13 – Beat Error Correction

Beat error is the asymmetry between the tick and the tock.
Ideally, both sides of the balance wheel swing equally.

Causes of beat error:

• misaligned balance wheel
• incorrect position of the impulse jewel
• previous poor-quality repair
• shock or impact shifting the roller table
• bent balance staff

Correction process:

The watchmaker rotates the balance collet or repositions the impulse jewel until timing symmetry is restored.

Reducing beat error dramatically improves stability and accuracy.

Step 14 – Multiple-Position Testing

This simulates real-world wearing conditions.

Vintage watches are tested in:

1. dial up
2. dial down
3. crown up
4. crown down
5. 12 o’clock up
6. 9 o’clock up (sometimes)

Older movements behave very differently depending on position. This step ensures that the watch won’t stop when worn.

Chronographs and pocket watches are especially sensitive to positional variation.

Step 15 – Water-Resistance Check (If Safe)

Vintage watches are not tested at full pressure because:

• gaskets are often irreplaceable
• crystals are acrylic and may crack under pressure
• dials (especially radium/tritium) may bubble under moisture pressure
• water testing machines can introduce vapor

Safe tests include:

• dry vacuum test
• light pressure test
• gasket visual inspection

Vintage Rolex Oyster cases can handle more pressure, but testing is still conservative.

Antique watches (1910s–1940s) should never be water tested.

Step 16 – Case Cleaning 

A proper vintage watch repair service will clean the case but avoid destructive polishing.

Safe cleaning methods:

• ultrasonic cleaning of case only
• gentle soap solution for grime
• brushing around lugs and bezel
• acrylic crystal cleaning with Polywatch (if needed)

Step 17 – Final Assembly & Strap Fitting

Once all movement testing is complete, components are reinstalled:

• movement into case
• dial aligned and fixed
• hands pressed with calibrated hand-setting tools
• calendar aligned
• crown tube lubricated
• case closed with proper torque

Finally, the strap or bracelet is installed.
Leather straps should never be placed on watches until after testing to avoid moisture absorption.

A proper vintage watch specialist ensures:

• hands do not touch each other
• hands do not touch dial
• date flips correctly
• second hand does not rub the crystal

These are common issues when amateurs attempt assembly.

Step 18 – 48-Hour Performance Test

The watch is tested for two full days in varying conditions:

• resting dial up overnight
• resting dial down
• crown up
• simulated wrist motion
• full wind and half wind timing checks

A watch may run perfectly during reassembly but fail after 24 hours if:

• oil settles incorrectly
• friction increases
• beat error becomes unstable
• calendar misaligns
• automatic module fails to wind properly

The 48-hour test is essential before the watch is returned to the owner.

Step 19 – Warranty Card & Documentation

Professional workshops provide:

• written documentation of service performed
• timing printouts
• amplitude measurements
• beat error correction notes
• list of replaced parts
• photos before and after service
• warranty card (3–12 months)

This not only guarantees the work but also increases resale value.

Collectors often use service documents to verify authenticity and proper care — especially for vintage Omega, Longines, Rolex, Cartier, and chronographs.

Essential Things to Know Before Servicing a Vintage Watch

Before you hand your vintage timepiece to a watchmaker, there are several important considerations to understand. These factors can dramatically affect the value, longevity, and authenticity of your watch.

Parts Availability & Risks

Servicing vintage watches requires careful sourcing of authentic parts. Many original components are discontinued, making repairs more complex and expensive.

Rare components include:

• balance staffs
• rotors (Omega)
• reverser wheels (Rolex)
• vintage chronograph wheels
• calendar discs
• jewels
• screws for discontinued movements
• pocket watch escapement components

Donor movements

When a part cannot be found, the watchmaker purchases a donor movement — often sacrificing one vintage watch to save another.

Risks of incorrect parts

Non-original parts can:

• ruin authenticity
• reduce value
• cause mechanical incompatibility
• lead to long-term failure

A qualified vintage watch specialist will always discuss part sourcing transparently.

Value Preservation

Proper vintage watch servicing not only protects your watch — it increases value.

Servicing improves:

• resale desirability
• mechanical lifespan
• timekeeping performance
• reliability
• customer trust when selling

Documentation matters

Always keep:

• service receipts
• timing sheets
• parts replaced
• watchmaker details

This documentation proves authenticity and care — especially important for vintage Rolex and Omega watches.

Servicing Costs Explained: Omega, Longines, Rolex & Others 

Prices vary depending on the watch brand, age, complexity, and whether the service is performed by:

• an independent vintage watch repair specialist
• an official service center

Below is an expanded chart summarizing typical costs:

Price Comparison Table

Brand	Independent Specialist	Official Service Center
Vintage Omega	$180–350	$650–900+
Vintage Longines	$160–300	$500–750+
Vintage Rolex	$250–450	$900–1200+
Vintage Cartier	$200–350	$700–1000+
Vintage Chronograph Repair	$350–700+	$1000–1800+
Vintage Pocket Watches	$150–350	n/a (no official service)
Universal Genève	$200–350	n/a
Tissot / Doxa	$120–250	$350–500

 

Why independent vintage watch repair is cheaper

Independents generally:

• preserve originality
• avoid unnecessary part replacement
• do not polish unless requested
• prioritize maintaining vintage aesthetics

A good independent workshop is often better for collectors than a service center.

Why official service centers are more expensive

Brand service centers:

• replace parts rather than repairing them
• polish cases automatically (unless refused)
• require full restoration to factory specifications
• provide full water testing
• use only modern parts (sometimes visually different)

Collectors often avoid brand service centers for vintage Rolex and Omega pieces for this reason.

How to Choose the Right Workshop for Vintage Watches

Choosing the right watchmaker can be the difference between preserving value and destroying it.

Below is a detailed guide to help you choose wisely.

Qualifications to Look For

When selecting a vintage watch repair specialist, ensure they have:

1. Experience with your brand

A watchmaker who only services modern ETA movements may not have the skills to work on vintage pieces.

2. Professional equipment

Look for:

• timegrapher
• ultrasonic cleaning machine
• staking set
• microscope
• oils (Moebius brand)
• proper case openers
• vintage-specific tools
• dust-free environment

3. Access to spare parts

The best specialists have:

• donor movements
• part suppliers
• vintage spare inventories

4. Transparency

A good watchmaker will:

• explain problems
• provide photos
• give realistic timelines
• return old parts

5. Vintage philosophy

Some watchmakers prioritize preservation
Others prioritize restoration. 

Maintenance & Care Between Servicing

Proper care dramatically extends the lifespan of vintage watches. Even with a full professional overhaul, poor daily habits can damage the movement, dial, case, and crystal.

These principles apply to both mechanical and automatic vintage watches.

Daily Habits

Wind the watch gently

Always wind slow and steady. Vintage crowns, stems, and keyless works are not as strong as modern ones.

• Stop winding as soon as resistance increases.
• Do not “snap” the crown.
• Do not force quickset date mechanisms.

Avoid magnets

Magnetization is one of the most common issues today. Avoid places such as:

• laptop speakers
• phone cases with magnets
• airport scanners
• iPad covers
• magnetic charging cables

A magnetized watch can suddenly run minutes per day fast.

Avoid moisture

Vintage watches are NOT water-resistant — even if originally rated “waterproof.”

Avoid:

• washing hands with watch on
• sauna
• rain exposure
• swimming
• bathroom humidity

Moisture destroys vintage dials and causes rust in hours, not days.

Handle watches with clean hands

Skin oils can:

• stain cases
• damage vintage straps
• attract dust

Long-Term Storage

Storing vintage watches correctly ensures they remain stable for years.

Use a dry environment

Humidity is the biggest enemy.

Store watches in:

• a dry cabinet
• a box with silica gel
• a dedicated watch safe with humidity control

Do NOT store watches in basements or bathrooms.

Run the watch every 1–2 months

This prevents oils from coagulating.

Avoid direct sunlight

UV exposure can damage dials and fade lume.

Wearing Your Watch Safely

Vintage watches are durable enough for daily wear if treated correctly.

Avoid impacts

Even small shocks can:

• break balance staffs
• dislodge jewels
• bend wheels
• damage pallet fork pivots

Avoid:

• gym workouts
• running or jogging
• cycling
• DIY home projects

Vintage Rolex models have better shock protection, but still require caution.

Beware of temperature extremes

Quick temperature change (from cold air to hot environment) can cause condensation inside the case.

Be careful with chronographs

Do not activate chronographs underwater or with force.
Older chronograph clutches are extremely delicate.

Frequently Asked Questions

A full FAQ covering everything from vintage Omega servicing to antique pocket watch repair.

1. Do vintage watches need waterproof testing?

Heavy pressure tests are dangerous.
Vintage watches should not be treated like modern divers.

2. Can a vintage watch be accurate?

Yes — but not like modern quartz.
A serviced vintage watch typically runs:

• ±60–90 seconds/day (vintage mechanical watches)
• ±1–2 minutes/day (pocket watches)

3. How often should you service vintage watches?

General rule: every 4–5 years.
Rolex may stretch to 6–7 years, depending on use.

Chronographs should be serviced every 4 years.

Antique pocket watches: every 3–4 years.

4. Should I open the case myself?

Never.

Opening the case exposes the movement to:

• dust
• humidity
• fingerprints
• lint
• static electricity

And you risk scratching the case back.

Always let a professional vintage watch repair specialist open the watch.

5. What happens if I don’t service the watch?

Over time:

• oils dry
• metal wears
• pivots grind
• accuracy drops
• rust forms
• jewels crack
• escapement becomes unstable

The watch can suffer irreversible damage.

6. Does servicing increase value?

Yes.

A documented vintage watch servicing increases resale value by:

• improving buyer confidence
• proving internal health
• confirming originality
• providing mechanical stability

Collectors strongly prefer watches that come with service receipts.

7. How much does vintage Rolex service cost?

• Independent specialist: $250–450
• Rolex Service Center: $900–1200+

The Service Center often replaces parts, dials, hands, and polishes cases, which reduces collector value.

8. Is vintage Omega service expensive?

• Independent: $180–350
• Omega Service Center: $650–900+

Omega is known for replacing dials and hands, so collectors usually choose independent specialists.

9. Do vintage watches need to be wound daily?

Manual wind: yes, daily.
Automatic: no, but wearing them regularly helps keep oils distributed.

10. Is it safe to clean old watches at home?

External light cleaning is safe (soft cloth only).
NEVER clean the dial, hands, or movement — you can destroy lume or remove printing instantly.

 

Whether you're a seasoned collector or a new enthusiast, choosing the right watchmaker and following proper maintenance practices ensures that your vintage timepieces remain treasures for generations.