Vintage Poljot Kirovskie, Early Dress Watch, Rare black Dial, AU20 Case from 1960s

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This Poljot Kirovskie dress watch dates to the 1960s and comes from the early years of the First Moscow Watch Factory’s civilian production. Watches from this period mark the transition from the Kirov name to Poljot and are now increasingly hard to find.

This example is especially notable for its black dial, a rare choice for Soviet dress watches of the time, which were usually made with light-colored dials. The presence of the early “Kirovskie” name on the dial places it among the factory’s first dress models, produced before the Poljot name was used on its own.

Together, the early dial signature and uncommon dial color make this a highly collectible watch and an important example of early Soviet dress watch design.

CASE

  • Gold-plated case marked AU20

  • Case diameter: 36 mm

  • Classic dress watch proportions from the period

DIAL

  • Rare black dial

  • Early “Kirovskie” signature

  • Clean, restrained layout typical of early factory production

  • Black dials from this era are uncommon and sought after by collectors

MOVEMENT

  • Manual-wind movement

  • 16 jewels

  • Produced by the First Moscow Watch Factory

About Brand

What makes Poljot an important vintage watch brand?

Poljot is one of the most historically significant Soviet watch brands, founded in 1964 as the export brand of the First Moscow Watch Factory. In the vintage watch market, Poljot is valued for its in-house mechanical movements, robust construction, and strong association with Soviet-era engineering. Vintage Poljot watches represent an important chapter in 20th-century watchmaking history.

Why is Poljot significant in vintage watch history?

Poljot played a central role in Soviet watch production and technological development. The factory produced watches for military, aviation, and space programs, including timepieces worn by Soviet cosmonauts. Movements such as the Poljot caliber 3133, based on the Valjoux 7734 architecture, became some of the most respected mechanical chronograph movements produced in the USSR and remain highly collectible today.

Are vintage Poljot watches suitable for everyday wear?

Many vintage Poljot watches were designed as functional tool watches and are known for their durability. Time-only and chronograph models powered by movements such as the caliber 2614, 2609, or 3133 are generally robust and serviceable. When properly maintained, a vintage Poljot watch can be worn regularly while retaining its character as a collectible vintage watch.

What should collectors look for when buying a vintage Poljot watch?

When purchasing a vintage watch from Poljot, collectors should focus on originality and mechanical condition. Important considerations include:

  • Original Soviet-era dial and hands

  • Correct movement caliber for the case and production period

  • Signs of professional servicing

  • Consistent wear appropriate to age

Because many Poljot watches were used extensively, honest wear is often acceptable and expected.

Which vintage Poljot models are most collectible?

Some of the most sought-after vintage Poljot watches include:

  • Chronographs powered by the caliber 3133

  • Poljot Strela chronographs associated with Soviet space history

  • Military and aviation-issued watches

  • Early export models produced for Western markets

These models are valued for their historical context, mechanical simplicity, and unique position in the vintage watch market.

Are vintage Poljot watches a good investment?

Poljot offers a compelling value proposition in the vintage watch segment. While generally more accessible than Swiss brands, historically significant models such as early Strela or well-preserved 3133 chronographs have seen increasing collector interest. Vintage Poljot watches appeal to collectors seeking authenticity and historical depth.

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