Vintage Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil, Ref. 590005, Column Dial, Roman Numerals from 1980's - DuMarko

Vintage Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil, Ref. 590005, Column Dial, Roman Numerals from 1980's

Name: Vintage Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil, Ref. 590005, Column Dial, Roman Numerals from 1980's
Brand: DuMarko
Price: 3600.00 USD
Availability: OutOfStock

$3,600.00

USA & EU: Taxes and import duties included

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The must de Cartier Tank needs very little introduction, but this particular example has something most don't. The column dial - with its four gold vertical stripes dividing the ivory surface into distinct sections - is one of the rarer and more visually striking configurations produced under the reference 590005. It's the kind of detail that separates a good vintage Cartier from a genuinely interesting one.

The case is vermeil, constructed from 925 sterling silver with gold plating - the defining material of the must de Cartier line, launched in 1976 and produced in this form through the 1990s. At 23.5mm × 30.6mm and just 6mm thick, it sits flat and refined on the wrist. The proportions are deliberate, the silhouette unmistakable. This is a vintage Swiss watch that has aged gracefully.

The watch has been professionally serviced and is running correctly. A clean example of one of the most collectible vintage Cartier references on the market today.

CASE

Cartier Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil
Reference: 590005
Vermeil case
Sapphire cabochon crown
Case size: 23.5mm x 30.6mm
Thickness: 6mm

DIAL

Ivory dial with vertical column design
Black Roman numeral hour markers
Blued hands

MOVEMENT

Quartz movement
Running correctly
Recently serviced
Service completed, watch working properly

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About Brand

What makes Cartier an important vintage watch brand?

Cartier, founded in 1847 in Paris, is one of the most influential names in luxury design and watchmaking. In the vintage watch market, Cartier is celebrated for pioneering shaped watch cases and transforming the wristwatch into a refined design object. Vintage Cartier watches combine strong aesthetic identity with Swiss mechanical expertise, making them highly desirable among collectors of elegant vintage watches.

Why is Cartier significant in vintage watch history?

Cartier was instrumental in popularizing the wristwatch for men in the early 20th century. The Cartier Santos, introduced in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is considered one of the earliest purpose-designed wristwatches. The Tank, introduced in 1917, became one of the most iconic watch designs ever created. These models helped shape the evolution of the modern vintage watch.

Are vintage Cartier watches suitable for everyday wear?

Many vintage Cartier watches were designed as refined dress watches, suitable for regular wear in formal or professional settings. Models powered by high-quality Swiss movements, including manual-wind calibers supplied by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, or ETA, are known for reliability when properly serviced. A well-maintained vintage Cartier watch can be worn daily while maintaining its collectible value.

What should collectors look for when buying a vintage Cartier watch?

When purchasing a vintage watch from Cartier, originality and case condition are especially important. Collectors should pay attention to:

Original dial with correct Cartier signature and typography
Proper case engravings and serial numbers
Correct cabochon crown
Matching movement type for the production period

Because Cartier watches often feature precious metals and distinctive case shapes, condition and originality strongly affect value.

Which vintage Cartier models are most collectible?

Some of the most sought-after vintage Cartier watches include:

Cartier Tank (Tank Louis, Tank Normale, Tank Américaine)
Cartier Santos early mechanical models
Cartier Crash
Cartier Baignoire
Vintage Cartier watches powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre movements

These models are prized for their design heritage, historical importance, and enduring elegance in the vintage watch market.

Are vintage Cartier watches a good investment?

Cartier holds a strong position in the vintage watch segment due to its iconic designs and global brand recognition. Models such as the Tank and Santos have demonstrated consistent long-term demand. Rare or early production examples, particularly in precious metals, continue to attract serious collectors of vintage watches.

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