Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Art Deco Tank, Black Gilted Dial Cal. 438, "Crab" Lugs from 1950's
This vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Art Deco Tank is a striking rectangular watch from the 1950's, defined by strong geometry and refined detailing. Its elongated case proportions and distinctive “crab” lugs beautifully presents Art Deco period. An exceptional feature of this example is its black gilt dial, which has been professionally restored.
The watch carries the LeCoultre name on the dial, a designation used specifically for the American market. During this era, Jaeger-LeCoultre branding differed by region: Jaeger for France, Jaeger-LeCoultre for Europe and Switzerland, and LeCoultre for the United States. This example aligns fully with U.S. market production, both in movement and case.
Inside is the manual-wind Caliber 438 in the 438/4CW configuration. The presence of the “VXN” import code confirms the movement was exported from Switzerland to the United States, where it was cased locally.
CASE
-
Rectangular Art Deco case with “crab” lugs
-
Case size: 41.5mm × 22.5mm
-
Width including lugs: 26mm
-
Lug width: 16mm
-
Thickness: 9.5mm
DIAL
-
Black gilt dial
-
Professionally restored
-
Classic Art Deco layout
-
“LeCoultre” signature for the U.S. market
MOVEMENT
-
Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 438 / 438-4CW
-
Manual-wind mechanical movement
-
Swiss made
-
“VXN” import code indicating U.S. export
-
Serial number: 545,962
About Brand
What makes Jaeger-LeCoultre an important vintage watch brand?
Jaeger-LeCoultre, founded in 1833 in the Vallée de Joux, is regarded as one of the most technically accomplished Swiss watch manufacturers in history. Often referred to as “the watchmaker’s watchmaker,” the brand is highly respected in the vintage watch market for its in-house movements, technical innovation, and refined design. Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches are valued for their mechanical excellence and understated elegance.
Why is Jaeger-LeCoultre significant in vintage watch history?
Jaeger-LeCoultre played a pivotal role in advancing watchmaking technology throughout the 20th century. The brand supplied movements to other leading Swiss manufacturers and developed ultra-thin calibers, complex complications, and innovative case designs. Iconic creations such as the Reverso, introduced in 1931, and early Memovox alarm watches are now considered landmarks in vintage watch history.
Are vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches suitable for everyday wear?
Many vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches were designed for daily use, particularly dress and professional models. Watches powered by movements such as the caliber 450, caliber 470, or early caliber 8xx and 9xx families are known for their precision and smooth operation. When properly serviced, a vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watch can be worn regularly while retaining its value as a collectible vintage watch.
What should collectors look for when buying a vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watch?
When purchasing a vintage watch from Jaeger-LeCoultre, collectors should focus on originality and technical condition. Important aspects include:
-
Original dial and hands with correct proportions
-
Correct case style and movement caliber
-
Matching serial numbers where applicable
-
Evidence of professional servicing
Because Jaeger-LeCoultre produced many variations, correct configuration and originality play a significant role in determining value.
Which vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre models are most collectible?
Some of the most sought-after vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches include:
-
Reverso models from the 1930s–1950s
-
Early Memovox alarm watches
-
Triple-date and moonphase models
-
Ultra-thin dress watches powered by manual-wind calibers
These models are prized for their innovation, craftsmanship, and timeless design within the vintage watch market.
Are vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches a good investment?
Jaeger-LeCoultre offers strong long-term appeal in the vintage watch market. While historically undervalued compared to some peers, collector interest has grown steadily as appreciation for the brand’s technical contributions increases. Well-preserved vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches, especially early Reverso and Memovox models, continue to attract strong demand.
Additional photos or videos of the watch
We can send additional photos if needed, including close-ups of the watch movement, back case, or any other specific details.
Simply contact us here, and a member of our team will be happy to assist!
Watch servicing information
All watches in our shop are in full working condition, having been professionally serviced by a certified watchmaker. Each watch undergoes a final inspection prior to shipping to ensure quality and reliability.
Shipping
Standard Delivery: 7-21 business days, depending on location. Free for all orders.
Express Delivery: 3-10 business days, depending on location, at extra cost. Free for orders 1000$ and more.
Processing Time: 3-5 business days for all orders, regardless of shipping method.
All parcels are fully insured and carefully packaged to ensure they arrive safely. For specific delivery estimates based on your country, please visit this page.
Warranty
Each watch purchased from us includes a warranty to ensure its quality and performance. The warranty covers movement and functional issues, with specific terms based on the type of watch (1 year for mechanical and automatic watches, 6 months for quartz watches). For more details, please visit this page.
In Partnership with UPS for Trusted Shipping
Fast Shipping
Enjoy fast worldwide shipping and easy returns for a seamless shopping experience.
Expert Support
Get help from our watch experts anytime via chat or email.
Curated Collection
Discover unique, rare watches that are tested and verified by our team.
Satisfied Customers
Hundreds of happy customers and genuine reviews to boost your confidence.










